There are two good reasons why there are so many dermatologists and plastic surgeons in California and Florida. Not only are people there concerned about their appearance, but they have more sun damage than most anywhere else. Tans—once considered healthy and attractive—have turned to weathered, aged skin.
FREE RADICALS THAT DAMAGE CELLS AND DNA
Of course, anti-aging skin care products are popular all over—but especially in the sunbelt states, where the sun’s UV rays have damaged the skin. And we’re not talking about a few little crow’s feet here. I live in the unofficial sun-damage capital of the world—southern California–which has more than its share of lines, wrinkles, scaling, loss of elasticity, uneven skin tone and hyper-pigmentation. In the sunbelt states, the sun inflicts profound damage and accounts for 90% of the symptoms of premature aging.
Sunscreen is a critical first step—but not just any sunscreen. In fact, one independent environmental group claims that 80% of sunscreens fail to provide adequate protection (more on this in my next blog).
But let’s go beyond sunblocks, and think about the anti-oxidants that are contained in skin care products. Anti-oxidants are not just a buzzword any more. The good, old-fashioned ones, like Vitamins A, C and E are still good. They protect against free radicals and help keep the skin supple and younger-looking. But newer anti-oxidants have evolved that work harder and smarter.
Natural melanin dissipates 99.9% of the free radicals that it comes in contact with (that’s 10X more than Vitamin E). It’s one of nature’s best photo-protectants. The melanin that I use in Oclipse sunscreen is derived from cuttle fish, and lends a soft, natural tint to the sunscreen.
DNA Repair enzymes have great value as well. They work at the cellular level to repair oxidative (free radical) damage as it occurs, and makes the cells stronger and more resistant to future damage. Co-Q-10 protects cells’ DNA by helping to prevent structural and cellular damage caused by pollution, sunlight and cigarette smoke.
And so why do I use so many anti-oxidants? Isn’t one good enough? Not in my opinion. When I fight, I fight hard. I don’t want to just “protect”—I want to repair, prevent and protect.
Start with a product that defends and repairs cellular damage, then top it off with a broad- spectrum UVA/UVB sunblock. Wait 20 minutes before going outside. When you’re in the sun, reapply the sunscreen frequently (there is no such thing as an all-day waterproof sunscreen).
Enjoy the summer; take care of yourself, and your skin.
Zein Obagi, MD
Dear Doctor,
Can you advise if your new range is for all skin type and age or if any type of skin should not use? I have combination skin with fine lines, pigmentation and maybe not so firm as i would like it to be. I live in a whole year round sunny place.
Thank you.
CC:
The ZO products have been available for 12-36 months now, and I’m not aware of any particular skin types that have problems with it. People who are sensitive to silicone typically experience mild acne breakouts along the hairline, but I haven’t heard of any complaints with our Oclipse Sunscreen (which contains silicone). Some people are hypersensitive to soy, and five of our products contain soy derivatives (but again, I haven’t heard of any complaints which seem to relate to soy). Many of my products have been tremendously successful in Asia, and occasionally I’ll hear of someone from there complain that they can’t tolerate the products, but it’s very rare.
Depending on the nature and extent of your sun damage, you could be an excellent candidate for either the medical line (NuDerm) or the newer, over-the-counter products (ZO Skin Health.)
Zein Obgi, MD
Dear Dr Obagi,
What is the difference of NuDerm and ZO Skin Health? I mean how (under what skin condition) to choose between these two.
Thanks a lot,
Lisa
Hi, LIsa
Good questions! And since you gave me a relatively simple question, I’ll try to give you a relatively simple answer.
The similarities: Both the Obagi NuDerm and ZO Skin Health lines are based on my philosophy of skin health restoration by activating and stimulating skin cells. Both are systems–and you will get your best result by using multiple products. Both brands contain high concentrations of active ingredients.
The differences: Obagi NuDerm is the gold standard for medical treatments, and is best prescribed and monitored by a physician. It causes redness, irritation and peeling and renews the skin by restoring cellular function. Typically it is recommended for the treatment of advanced photo-aging, melasma, acne, hyperpigmentation and other medical conditions. The active treatment portion of the NuDerm regimen typically lasts about 18 weeks.
ZO Skin Health completes what I call the Circle of Health, and can be used either as a precursor to Obagi NuDerm, in conjunction with NuDerm–as part of the maintenance phase; or totally apart from Obagi NuDerm. It’s not as aggressive as NuDerm, it’s a cosmeceutical that also works to restore cellular function but does so without causing redness, etc. It too is recommended for photodamage, premature skin aging, etc.
As for which is best for you: do you want prescription-strength ingredients? Are you OK with redness and peeling for a period of about 18 weeks? If so, speak to a physician about NuDerm (see obagi.com for a physician referral). Are you currently using retinoic acid (Retin-A, Renova, tretinoin, etc.) If you want to rejuvenate your skin, and begin a lifetime of skin health, and you don’t have a medical condition as described above, you could be a great candidate for ZO Skin Health.
Hope that helps.
Zein Obagi, MD
Dr. Obagi,
Im thrilled to have found this blog…..
I started the Obagi Nu Derm system 6 days ago.
Apparently, after reading through all of your replys, etc…my supposed “dry skin” is most likely just sun damaged skin. As a child I never wore sunscreen, lived in the country and was constantly outside. As a teenager, I layed out in the sun and got a tan every summer. My skin is olive toned, so I tanned very easily. I always had a nice clear complexion, never any skin problems.
In my 20’s I began experiencing more breakouts than I EVER did in my teens, and in my 30’s I felt like I had the typical teenage skin. Throughout all 3 of my pregnancies my skin broke out. Mostly around my chin. And in my last one I got mild “pregnancy mask” around my mouth and small spots on my cheeks.
Im 38 now. A couple of years ago I finally saw a dermatologist. ( through my Ins. Kaiser) She said the culprit was stress and hormones! I didnt really feel very hopeful that I could change either of these things much…..in the past year my skin has been in an all time BAD state. ??? The most stressful year of my life – so it could be connected to stress….but the further I look into it the more convinced I am that I just have sun damage!!!
I have dark spots, scars from breakouts and picking at them, hyperpigmentation, sun spots, and still get breakouts.
Ok, so, back to the Nu Derm, now that you know my story!
My skin is very red and tight and dry. I am peeling like I had a bad sunburn, and my skin FEELS like I have a sunburn! Its itchy and dry, but its kind of miserable because of the burning sensation.The most severe dryness and burning is around my moth and chin.
I just want to make sure Im not having a reaction, and that all this is normal. Im willing to brave it for the awesome result Im expecting…..just wondering if I will feel this way for a long time. Id love some input on how long this phase may last. In addition to the misery, I look pretty awful and am dreading facing people with my red, dry, peeling skin!
My cousin and I started the system on the same day and my reaction has been quite a bit more dramatic than hers. Shes worried that it means its working less for her. Im thinking it means my skin is in a worse state than hers. Shes had microdermabrasion, chemical peels, etc…..before this.
Any and all responses that you may have the time to give would be so appreciated. Im just in awe of the fact that you even answer questions on a blog at all!!! Which I think is awesome!
Thank you.
Tasha
Hi, Tasha:
Not to worry–your reactions are not only normal; they’re perfectly normal. And for all of the problems that you describe–sun damage, hyperpigmentation, acne, etc., the Obagi NuDerm like should go a great job of repair and transformation. Let me know how you do.
The tightness, dryness, peeling are the way that NuDerm works. The products accelerate cellular turnover, to produce new and healthy skin cells. As that happens, the old, damaged cells are exfoliated. I don’t know what your doctor recommended, but I tell my patients that for the first six weeks you will hate it, for the next six weeks you will like it, for the final six weeks you will love it.
I recommend that my patients use ZO Skin Health Exfoliating Polish, to clear off the peeling, flaking, etc. It won’t either expedite or retard the way that NuDerm works, it will only clear off the dull dry, dead skin, so your skin will feel healthy and well, polished. As soon as you feel you can tolerate it (and sometimes this takes a week or two), use it in the shower every morning. Your skin will look and feel great. Within 4 hours or so, your skin will be peeling all over again, but even that brief time gives you and your skin a respite. (if you don’t dont want to use it every day, just use it before a meeting, lunch with friends, etc.)
When you’ve completed the regimen, be sure to stay on a maintenance program. You can cut down on most of the products and introduce a few others, for a lifetime of healthy, clean, clear skin.
As for two people having a very different result. That’s normal and to be expected too. Even though the products may be the same, your “canvas” is different, so your experience and results will differ.
Glad to hear that everything is going well and that you’re under the care of a physician. As for your previous fun-in-the-sun days… it could be worse… at least you didn’t tell me about toasting your skin with baby oil and reflectors made out of aluminum foil!
Fight aging; fight hard!
Zein Obagi, MD
Dr Obagi,
I have just started using Clear. After just two applications my skin is all red and burning. As I work in a client relationship environment I cannot afford to have my skin looking all blotchy. Can I used Clear on alternate days? Will this affect the result. I dont mind if the result is slow as long as it is achieved.
Thanks
Shell
Hi, Shell:
I can’t speak for your doctor, but in my opinion and experience it’s absolutely OK to use Clear on alternate days. People with sensitive skin may need to apply the products (particularly Clear, Blender and Tretinoin) at a reduced frequency. Don’t worry, you won’t compromise the result; it may just take a little longer.
Zein Obagi, MD
Dear Dr. Obagi,
I recently was advised by my new dermatologist to go onto a NuDerm maintenance program for 3 months which I have no problem with at all. At the time of this visit, I was there to have some actinic keratosis spots addressed.
Prior to changing dermatologists, I have been using NuDerm with 0.05% Tretinoin for 20 weeks predeeded by 8 weeks of Vivete by Allergan using Tri-Luma. With both regimens I have been using Protective Healthy Skin as my sunscreen. Ater switching from Vivete to Nuderm, which I had previous experience without incident my skin became increasingly dry and irritated. 10% Vitamin C in the AM and Action, as needed were added, also I “started from scratch” and slowly started introducing the products to my daily routine or tried alternating days. I started using Action everyday so that I could at least continue using the other products but I was not satisfied with the care I was receiving because I know my skin very well.
A number of years ago I used NuDerm for 16 weeks without incident and after the 16 weeks was up was put on a different group of products all together.I only add this because I know that it is not the Nuderm has caused my skin to become so dehydrated, dull and thin and I never used Action then.
I had to be off of NuDerm for 3 weeks before the use of liquid nitrogen on my face and during that time I used what I had on hand to hydrate my skin, it had become so dry. It has been recommended that I have a hydrating facial performed. Now, I love to pamper myself and I have not have a facial in along time.
This would give my skin a nice jumpstart but I prefer incorporating a more long term addition to the NuDerm for my skin but I know to avoid doubling up on an ingredient, such as a retinoid which currently I use only at night.
Whether using NuDerm or not, at 57 my skin is thin, dull, dry especially peri-orally. People once said I didn’t look my age and now they don’t. When I look in the mirror I do not like what I see either.
Dr. Obagi, I would like your recommendation as to what I could safely incorporate from ZO Skin Health along with NuDerm to optimize my results by retoring my skin’s needs.
Thank you for your time and for all of your good works. Thanks to you,I discovered the actinic keratosis in order to take immediate action.
Look forward to receiving your advice.
Anne
I have serious and consistent problems with skin breakouts and oily skin (and I’m way too old for this!!!). I use Retin A Micro, which causes my skin to be dry, and I like your Vitamin C products because of the anti-oxidants. My complexion looks great–I’m 50, but people tell me that I look 30 (my skin, that is, not all of me!). Please help.
Gretchen V
Hi, Gretchen:
The Vitamin C may be the problem. Do you have problems with pigmentation? Vitamin C is great to lighten and brighten the skin, but if you’re just looking for a product that is high in anti-oxidants, you may do better with ZO’s Daily Power Defense.
If you look 20 years younger–I wouldn’t change much! You’re doing something right!
Zein Obagi, MD
Dr. Obagi,
I am so thankful for discovering your ZO Skin Health skin care line and having incorporated it as part of my Obagi NuDerm Maintenance regimen how well everything is working AND looking! This skin system works and I just want people to know that.
I began Obagi NuDerm and ZO Skin Health Maintenance 2 months ago and I just turned 58 on July 29th. I can honestly say that when I now look in the mirror I see such a marvelous improvement from where I was 6 months ago when I began Obagi NuDerm Protocol.
Now I look and see no need concerns over “naso-labial folds”, my face looks as good as some of the “after” photos we have all seen in some brochures and I am not kidding! By the way, I rarely like the way I look, even when I wear makeup although I do wear Oclipse Sunscreen + Primer everyday. Love the fact that it’s tinted!
All I can say is before you contemplate anything, confer with Dr. Obagi if needs be but consider using Zo Skin Health. I have tried many, many things however I say with all honesty, my skin has not been in this good a health in a very, very long time.
Thank you Dr. Obagi,
Anne
I used Obagi Nu Derm for about 8 months until the products ran out. Because I was still experiencing dryness and peeling around the chin area I only continued with the gel cleanser and toner. Recently my malasma started coming back, so I started the whole set again about two to three weeks ago. The peeling around the chin is there but not as bad. However, the rest of my face doesn’t seem to be drying out at all as it did last time, which is fine, but instead it has turned really oily. I could blot oil from my forehead just about every half an hour, and it’s driving me insane. The overall tone of my skin is nice, but I hate the shininess. I use Nutrigena Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch Sunblock SPF 55 with helioplex, thinking this would help with the greasiness, but it did not. How can my chin area be so dry but my forehead and cheeks so oily? Any suggestions with how to deal with this?
Hi, Teir:
In order to give you a good explanation, I would need a better understanding of what products you are using. Typically it is the “T-zone” that gets oily, but it sounds like your oiliness is extending far beyond that? What climate are you in? Skin does become more oily during hot, humid weather.
I recommend Neutrogena Ultra-Sheer Dry Touch in my practice; but generally with a lower SPF. Has there been any other changes like pregnancy or birth control pills?
Because your condition sounds extreme, you may want to see a physician. Oily skin can sometimes be a symptom of something that is unrelated to the skin or skincare products. While I would like to help, I’d feel better if you saw someone who could give you a medical opinion.
Zein Obagi, MD
Dr. Obagi,
Thanks for your products and taking the time to respond to users’ questions! I’m on day five of the Nu-Derm system and am beginning to experience peeling/redness around my mouth and on my chin — as I expected. The problem is I’m a guest speaker at a conference in three weeks. I really need to look good for this event, not red and blotchy. Would you recommend that I stop the program, then resume it AFTER the big conference? Or is there anything I can do to limit the side effects? Thanks for the program. I’m looking forward to completing the program and enjoying better skin!
Gina
Hello Gina,
Thank you for your feedback. No, you do not need to stop 3-weeks in advance of your speaking engagement. That is too soon. If you stop the Tretinoin Cream/Blender combo., and the Exfoderm 4-5 days prior to your event, that is more than sufficient. The skin around the mouth is thinner than that on the rest of the face. Further, the muscle movement from talking, eating, facial expressions, etc., induces more peeling than you would get on other parts of your face, such as the forehead.
I am quite fond of the ZO Skin Health Ommerse Daily Renewal Crème and the Ommerse Overnight Recovery Creme, as these are “functional” moisturizers – providing stimulative benefits to the skin, while hydrating skin. These can be incorporated into your current program, without any reservations.
Both of these soothe, calm, and nourish skin. There is Retinol in both of these products. Retinol allows skin to stimulate healthy skin cells, such as collagen, without making skin sensitive to the sun.
The soothing Oat and Canadian Willowherb complex reduce inflammation and redness – making either one of these an excellent choice to apply on top of Tretinoin/Blender (to reduce the reaction – but enhance results) OR for use with any prescription oral or topical medication your doctor may have you on to treat your skin.
The Daily Renewal Crème is lighter than the Recovery Night Crème. You can use the Ommerse Daily Renewal in the morning before applying sunscreen and as your last step at night. You will continue to have great results, without as much dryness or irritation as if you excluded the Ommerse from your program. Use Ommerse instead of Exfoderm and the Tretinoin/Blender combo, for the 4 days prior to your event.
Don’t worry; you’ll look great!
Best,
Sandra Obagi, MBA
Medical Esthetician