ZO Skin Health
Asian Skin—Part Nature, Part Nurture
Asians have flawless skin. At least that’s what the rest of the world thinks. But let’s FACE THE FACTS. That impeccable skin doesn’t come naturally. For many, it takes dedication.
First, let’s look at the plus side—and the first one is a big, big plus—especially up until age 30. Asians are the envy of women around the world because they look younger than their actual age. Asian skin generally contains more melanin, so photo-aging is not a significant problem. They like a fair, even-tone complexion, so they avoid sun exposure, and their skin is less prone to the tell-tale signs of aging—like wrinkling and sagging.
But Asian skin also has its problems:
Sensitivity
Asian skin is susceptible to discoloration from UV rays, hormonal changes, hot water, saunas, and steam. Asian skin also reacts badly to the use of some skin care products, moisturizers, fragrances and acne—all of which can result in skin reactions, scarring and increased pigmentation. Try to avoid those products and/or conditions that cause problems, and begin sun protection at an early age. Look out for ingredients like ammonia and arnia and sodium lauryl sulfate, especially if they appear at or near the top of the ingredient list. If these ingredients are used in minute amounts (toward the bottom of the list), they may not be problematic.
Pigmentation
Because Asian skin produces more melanin, it has a built-in SPF that helps reduce sun- burns, but this melanin also causes more discoloration. Even though the skin may appear to be light, the melanin may reside in the deeper layers of the skin. This excess melanin can induce pigmentation problems—including sun spots, dark patches, and deep discoloration that is resistant to treatment. Dark spots on the cheeks usually begin to appear in the 30’s and 40’s, although they can also appear earlier. Unfortunately, traditional ways of treating these pigmentation problems (IPL, photorejuvenation, light chemical peels and microdermabrasion) frequently are not effective, and may, in fact, cause the pigmentation to worsen.
Apply broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen with at least SPF 30 every day, rain or shine, and whether you’re indoors or out (UVA rays penetrate windows). Not only will you reduce the risk of skin cancer, you will also help reduce the incidence of pigmentation problems.
Oiliness/Acne
Asian skin tends to have unstable sebaceous glands. Sometimes that excess sebum production leads to discoloration and scarring. Proper care and oil-free moisturizers will help. Avoid products made with mineral oil—it’s the oil most commonly found in skincare products. It’s also important to avoid the use of cleansers that contain alcohol, as that may cause skin to produce even more oil. And don’t make the mistake of using overly harsh cleansers (look out for ingredients like sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate ) as these detergents can be very damaging.
The best way to treat all of these problems—sensitivity, pigmentation and acne—is by stimulating the skin to rejuvenate itself and expedite cellular renewal. All of my product lines are based on this philosophy. Sometimes, in more advanced cases, problem skin will require medical treatment and downtime.
Dr. Obagi is a pioneer in the treatment of Asian skin and has lectured and traveled extensively throughout Asia, training dermatologists and plastic surgeons. He owns and operates a practice in San Gabriel, CA (626.288.5115) with a staff fluent in Mandarin and Cantonese. His main office is in Beverly Hills, CA.
Zein Obagi, MD
亚洲皮肤的性质
亚洲人喜欢拥有完美的皮肤. 他们的白皙皮肤及均匀肤色令到其他国籍羨慕. 但是, 这种
無懈可擊的皮肤不是天生的. 当然很多人是采取多种方法令皮肤变得漂亮..
首先, 亚洲人的皮肤另到其它種族羡慕的主要原因是他们看起来比真实年龄年轻. 一般
来说, 亚洲人的皮肤比正常含有的黑色素高, 所以她们老化得不明显. 正因为他们喜欢平
均肤色, 所以经常避免暴曬太阳底下, 因此她们的皮肤不容易出现老化的徵象.
可惜, 就算更完美无缺的皮肤都有问题.
皮肤过敏
亞洲人的皮膚特別容易出現膚色不均勻的狀況, 主要原因是受到太陽的紫外線侵害, 荷
爾蒙失調, 熱水,桑拿浴 的影響. 如果使用不合適的皮膚保養品或香水 (香 水 有 香 料
及 色 素 成 份), 皮膚會产生反應, 例如会形成暗瘡, 瘡疤, 提升色素斑塊. 请在年轻时
候使用防曬用品. 请留意以下的一些成分, Ammonia, Arnia, Sodium Lauryl, Sulfate, 如
果这些成分出现最前排的成分表上, 都较为安全使用.
色素斑
正因为亚洲人的皮肤繁殖较多的黑色素, 皮肤本身建立的SPF 可以减少曬傷皮膚, 但亦
因为这种黑色素增加皮肤的色素斑. 虽然皮肤显得白皙, 黑色素沉淀于皮肤的里层. 这
些多余的黑色素可以导致皮肤颜色不均匀的主要原因, 包括雀斑, 黑块 等等.. 黑斑出现
在臉頰的两旁通常30 或 40 岁左右, 甚至些斑有可能会在早期呈现. 甚至有些醫生還會
用一些舊的方案解決嚴重的色素皮膚問題. 可惜這是一個治標不治本的方法, 看到的只
是皮膚表面得到改善. 有些皮膚醫生會使用 IPL, 脫皮術, 水晶磨皮術作為初步治療, 可
能導致皮膚有反效果.
每天使用Broad-Spectrum UVA/UVB防曬油, 防曬度至少SPF30, 无论下雨, 晴天, 室外,
不但可以减少皮肤癌的机会, 同时能够减低皮肤出现色素斑.
油性/粉刺
亚洲人的皮肤油脂分泌过多. 有时侯这些多余的油脂会另肤色变得不均匀. 要使用适当
自己的护肤品. 防止含有一些产品含有天然油脂. 最重要的是洗脸清潔劑,前往不可含有
酒精成份, 反而另皮肤分泌更多的油脂. 较为小心注意清潔劑組成部分. 请注意一些有
害性的成分. (例如, Sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium lareth sulfate)
最好的方法去治疗敏感, 色素斑, 暗瘡是促進皮肤细胞, 使皮肤变得美丽健康. 有时候, 比
价多问题的皮肤情况需要药物的治疗及过度期.
所有的皮膚色斑都可以成功地治療, 如果有一個平衡導線治療色斑, 皮膚會顯得更有光
澤, 健康, 年輕, 透徹, 就象初生的嬰兒一樣嫰滑. 想得到更多的諮詢電話是 626-288-
5115. (拥有流利广东话及国语) Obagi 醫生的偉大傑作另您的皮膚再次變得健康. 他
的主店位於Beverly Hills, California.
ZO Skin Health
Night-Time Skin Care. There’s No Rest for the Weary.
It’s an urban myth that skin goes to sleep at night. So let’s FACE THE FACTS.
There are a lot of reasons why skincare products need to be applied at night. In fact, it can be easily argued that nighttime products are more important than daytime, because that’s when the skin repairs itself.
- During the day, skin is bombarded with wind, makeup, pollution, sweating, and all of this exhausts the cells. Why? Because the sole purpose of skin is to protect our bodies from outside insults and contaminants. So during the daytime, the skin is busy defending itself from these environmental factors. That’s why, during the day, we apply products that strengthen, hydrate and protect with skin with antioxidants (topically and systemically) and UV protectors. At night, it’s ready to get ready for another day. That’s the time when the cells renew themselves and need to be activated with key ingredients like retinol; surface repair agents, such as ceramides; and anti-inflammatory agents, such as botanicals. These all work together to create skin that is brighter, more even-toned, and hydrated.
So nighttime products are different from daytime products, because the skin’s needs are different. - Many active ingredients in skincare products have a relatively short life, and are deactivated by sunlight. So the really important ingredients—the really good stuff—is rendered useless. So by nighttime, there’s no residual value. Products need to be reapplied.
- During the daytime skincare products are rubbed off, sweated off, washed off, wiped off. Or they’re completely absorbed. Moisturizers last only 3-4 hours. Medical treatments require application 2-3 times every 24 hours. I’m a proponent of saturating the skin with active and powerful ingredients so that it’s nourished throughout the day and night.
- Nighttime products are heavier, to restore essential moisture, reduce wrinkles and repair the skin. They provide what we call barrier protection—to prevent transepidermal water loss (dehydration). Then in the morning, your skin is supple, revitalized and smooth.
- The active ingredients used in nighttime products are better able to stimulate and up-regulate cell turnover so that fresher, brighter, healthier skin can emerge.
- Nighttime is a perfect opportunity for controlled release of active ingredients over a 4-6 hour period. It is also a good time to layer products which may not be possible during the daytime if makeup is to be applied overtop.
- Finally, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the importance of cleansing as a part of a night- time skincare program. Many people, I’m convinced, take the short-cut of not removing their make-up before retiring. Our faces are never covered, they’re always exposed to all kinds of environmental pollutants. Cleanse your skin, faithfully and thoroughly to remove the dirt and surface oils. It’s important for everyone, but critical for women who wear cosmetics. Sounds a bit extreme, I know, but you may even want to do it twice. It’s that important.
You may be tired, you may be stressed. But nighttime skincare is important. And it only takes a minute.
Zein Obagi, MD
ZO Skin Health
The SPF Numbers Game
The speedometer on my car goes to 160 mph. I’ve never actually driven that fast; I don’t know if the car actually goes that fast either. It’s a moot point, really. There’s so much traffic on the freeways in California that we’re happy to drive 65 mph, and that’s on a good day.
Having a speedometer that goes to 160 mph is just a numbers game. So let’s face the facts.
Skin care companies are trying to race each other in the SPF (sun protection factor) game, and it’s just a numbers game. In 2008, Coppertone came out with an SPF of 70. Neutrogena showed them up with Ultra Sheer Dry Touch, with SPF 85. Now Banana Boat is me-too’ing them with an SPF 85 spray. But Neutrogena is one-upping them again with an SPF 100 sunblock.
Consumers need to get smart. In this case, more is not necessarily better.
Contrary to what may seem to be conventional logic, an SPF 100 doesn’t offer twice the protection of an SPF 50. SPF protection does not increase proportionally with an increased SPF number. For example,
Therefore, an SPF 100 only gives you 1% more protection than an SPF 50. Not a heck of a lot. I’m not a proponent of sunscreens with SPF greater than 30 or 35 or 40, and here’s why:
- Ultra-high SPFs give people a false sense of security. Like they offer “all day protection”, which they don’t. Or they’re “waterproof”. Baloney. They get sweated-off and rubbed off. When you’re outdoors, sunscreens can and should be reapplied. A higher SPF does not necessarily mean better sun protection.
- In order to get that extra protection, manufacturers need to add more chemicals— like oxybenzone, sulisobenzone and Parsol 1789 (aka avobenzone). Unless you’re a major stock- holder in Dow Chemical, don’t use more chemicals than necessary. Your skin doesn’t need it.
- What’s more important than the SPF number, is the amount of sunscreen that is applied. Use a full shot glass for your body, which is about 1 oz. Slather it all over. If you’re in the sun during mid-day, reapply every hour or two.
- No one needs an SPF 100 unless they don’t plan on taking a shower for the next week. An SPF100 means that you could stay in the sun for 100 hours longer than you can without sunscreen, without burning. Assuming that it takes about an hour to burn—exactly why would anyone stay in the sun for 100 hours? Given that there’s about 12 hours of sunlight a day, that’s more than 8 days, without showering. Now, really.
- The problem is not the SPF factor, the problem is that most people don’t wear sunscreen at all! In fact, one third of all Americans don’t. Watch this. (segment from from ABC News) http://cosmos.bcst.yahoo.com/up/player/popup/?rn=3906861&cl=13589779&ch=4226723&src=news.
Moral of the story: Use a sunscreen that you like, that is effective, and reapply it frequently.
Enjoy the summer with friends and family. And please wear sunscreen.
Zein Obagi, MD
