Asians have flawless skin. At least that’s what the rest of the world thinks. But let’s FACE THE FACTS. That impeccable skin doesn’t come naturally. For many, it takes dedication.
First, let’s look at the plus side—and the first one is a big, big plus—especially up until age 30. Asians are the envy of women around the world because they look younger than their actual age. Asian skin generally contains more melanin, so photo-aging is not a significant problem. They like a fair, even-tone complexion, so they avoid sun exposure, and their skin is less prone to the tell-tale signs of aging—like wrinkling and sagging.
But Asian skin also has its problems:
Sensitivity
Asian skin is susceptible to discoloration from UV rays, hormonal changes, hot water, saunas, and steam. Asian skin also reacts badly to the use of some skin care products, moisturizers, fragrances and acne—all of which can result in skin reactions, scarring and increased pigmentation. Try to avoid those products and/or conditions that cause problems, and begin sun protection at an early age. Look out for ingredients like ammonia and arnia and sodium lauryl sulfate, especially if they appear at or near the top of the ingredient list. If these ingredients are used in minute amounts (toward the bottom of the list), they may not be problematic.
Pigmentation
Because Asian skin produces more melanin, it has a built-in SPF that helps reduce sun- burns, but this melanin also causes more discoloration. Even though the skin may appear to be light, the melanin may reside in the deeper layers of the skin. This excess melanin can induce pigmentation problems—including sun spots, dark patches, and deep discoloration that is resistant to treatment. Dark spots on the cheeks usually begin to appear in the 30’s and 40’s, although they can also appear earlier. Unfortunately, traditional ways of treating these pigmentation problems (IPL, photorejuvenation, light chemical peels and microdermabrasion) frequently are not effective, and may, in fact, cause the pigmentation to worsen.
Apply broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen with at least SPF 30 every day, rain or shine, and whether you’re indoors or out (UVA rays penetrate windows). Not only will you reduce the risk of skin cancer, you will also help reduce the incidence of pigmentation problems.
Oiliness/Acne
Asian skin tends to have unstable sebaceous glands. Sometimes that excess sebum production leads to discoloration and scarring. Proper care and oil-free moisturizers will help. Avoid products made with mineral oil—it’s the oil most commonly found in skincare products. It’s also important to avoid the use of cleansers that contain alcohol, as that may cause skin to produce even more oil. And don’t make the mistake of using overly harsh cleansers (look out for ingredients like sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate ) as these detergents can be very damaging.
The best way to treat all of these problems—sensitivity, pigmentation and acne—is by stimulating the skin to rejuvenate itself and expedite cellular renewal. All of my product lines are based on this philosophy. Sometimes, in more advanced cases, problem skin will require medical treatment and downtime.
Dr. Obagi is a pioneer in the treatment of Asian skin and has lectured and traveled extensively throughout Asia, training dermatologists and plastic surgeons. He owns and operates a practice in San Gabriel, CA (626.288.5115) with a staff fluent in Mandarin and Cantonese. His main office is in Beverly Hills, CA.
Zein Obagi, MD
亚洲皮肤的性质
亚洲人喜欢拥有完美的皮肤. 他们的白皙皮肤及均匀肤色令到其他国籍羨慕. 但是, 这种
無懈可擊的皮肤不是天生的. 当然很多人是采取多种方法令皮肤变得漂亮..
首先, 亚洲人的皮肤另到其它種族羡慕的主要原因是他们看起来比真实年龄年轻. 一般
来说, 亚洲人的皮肤比正常含有的黑色素高, 所以她们老化得不明显. 正因为他们喜欢平
均肤色, 所以经常避免暴曬太阳底下, 因此她们的皮肤不容易出现老化的徵象.
可惜, 就算更完美无缺的皮肤都有问题.
皮肤过敏
亞洲人的皮膚特別容易出現膚色不均勻的狀況, 主要原因是受到太陽的紫外線侵害, 荷
爾蒙失調, 熱水,桑拿浴 的影響. 如果使用不合適的皮膚保養品或香水 (香 水 有 香 料
及 色 素 成 份), 皮膚會产生反應, 例如会形成暗瘡, 瘡疤, 提升色素斑塊. 请在年轻时
候使用防曬用品. 请留意以下的一些成分, Ammonia, Arnia, Sodium Lauryl, Sulfate, 如
果这些成分出现最前排的成分表上, 都较为安全使用.
色素斑
正因为亚洲人的皮肤繁殖较多的黑色素, 皮肤本身建立的SPF 可以减少曬傷皮膚, 但亦
因为这种黑色素增加皮肤的色素斑. 虽然皮肤显得白皙, 黑色素沉淀于皮肤的里层. 这
些多余的黑色素可以导致皮肤颜色不均匀的主要原因, 包括雀斑, 黑块 等等.. 黑斑出现
在臉頰的两旁通常30 或 40 岁左右, 甚至些斑有可能会在早期呈现. 甚至有些醫生還會
用一些舊的方案解決嚴重的色素皮膚問題. 可惜這是一個治標不治本的方法, 看到的只
是皮膚表面得到改善. 有些皮膚醫生會使用 IPL, 脫皮術, 水晶磨皮術作為初步治療, 可
能導致皮膚有反效果.
每天使用Broad-Spectrum UVA/UVB防曬油, 防曬度至少SPF30, 无论下雨, 晴天, 室外,
不但可以减少皮肤癌的机会, 同时能够减低皮肤出现色素斑.
油性/粉刺
亚洲人的皮肤油脂分泌过多. 有时侯这些多余的油脂会另肤色变得不均匀. 要使用适当
自己的护肤品. 防止含有一些产品含有天然油脂. 最重要的是洗脸清潔劑,前往不可含有
酒精成份, 反而另皮肤分泌更多的油脂. 较为小心注意清潔劑組成部分. 请注意一些有
害性的成分. (例如, Sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium lareth sulfate)
最好的方法去治疗敏感, 色素斑, 暗瘡是促進皮肤细胞, 使皮肤变得美丽健康. 有时候, 比
价多问题的皮肤情况需要药物的治疗及过度期.
所有的皮膚色斑都可以成功地治療, 如果有一個平衡導線治療色斑, 皮膚會顯得更有光
澤, 健康, 年輕, 透徹, 就象初生的嬰兒一樣嫰滑. 想得到更多的諮詢電話是 626-288-
5115. (拥有流利广东话及国语) Obagi 醫生的偉大傑作另您的皮膚再次變得健康. 他
的主店位於Beverly Hills, California.
Hi Dr. Obagi,
I’ve written to you before regarding concerns of redness while using Zo products. I would just like to update you. I’ve been using Zo for over 2 months now, and my skin never looked this good! No more redness, and my skin seems to have a more even tone. No more milias, too! I use the Radical Night Repair with the Overnight Cream every other day. I alternate this with the Growth Factor Serum and Day Cream during the day. I also use the Exfoliating cleanser 2 to 3 times a week, and the Exfoliating Polish once a week.
The only thing that didn’t work for me, unfortunately, was the Sunblock. It seemed to clog my pores. I use mineral make-up, so that’s what I use as sunblock. It has worked well for me, so far.
I’m so glad to have discovered this line! I’m 38 yrs. old, and people have been complimenting me on my “flawless” skin.
Thank you, Dr. Obagi! More power to you!
Best regards,
Ohanna
Is there any magic bullet for adult acne? I have dry, dehydrated, sensitive skin that gets oily in the t-zone. And, I have breakouts that leave scars that last years because my skin is very pale and dehydrated.
Sorry, Jen, no magic bullets in this warchest. For better or worse, we try not to misrepresent the results of our products.
The problems that you’re experiencing could be the result of hormones, diet or stress that are causing excess oils. Acne, blackheads, whiteheads are often the result of excess oils in the skin that have clogged the pores.
Specialize. Given the problems that you have with an oily T-zone and dry/sensitive skin otherwise, maybe you should treat your problem areas differently than the rest of your face. The rest of my comments are therefore directed to your T-zone (or wherever else you have problems). As for the rest of your skin being sensitive, well, that’s a whole different subject!
Cleansing. Wash your skin with lukewarm water, no more than 2-3 times a day, with a cleanser formulated for oily skin. Washing more often, or with very hot water or harsh soaps, will only increase the activity of the oil glands. Be sure to rinse thoroughly and then apply a toner/ astringent on the oily area.
Unclog the pores. It’s the dirt and bacteria that are in the open pores that are causing acne. It’s important to keep your pores open and functioning properly. The best way to treat acne is to use both a physical and chemical exfoliant. Most of the scrubs that are labelled as “gentle” are too gentle to be effective. Try the ZO Skin Health Exfoliating Polish. It uses round magnesium crystals to buff the skin, clear off dead, dry skin cells, and remove surface debris from the pores. You can use it once a day (in the shower—it’s easier to rinse off that way). Or as little as 2-3 times a week, once you get your skin under control.
The oil-producing glands tend to be more prominent around the nose, and so oily skin is more problematic there. ZO Skin Health TE pads are soaked in salicylic acid and glycolic acid to exfoliate the skin cells and reduce oiliness. It’s the combination of these two—a mechanical exfoliant and a chemical one—that work together to control oiliness and breakouts. Generally, having one without the other just isn’t enough.
Unfortunately, there’s no cure for oily skin, but we can help control it.
Diet. There are varying opinions as to whether or not food causes acne, but there’s general agreement that fatty, oily foods only exacerbate oily skin. Salty, iodized foods are also part of the problem. Drink plenty of water.
Cosmetics. Avoid oil-based cosmetics (use only water-based)
If these problems persist, it’s important to get medical treatment, as acne can cause scars. See a dermatologist for a recommendation and prescription.
Hope that helps.
Donna Queen
President
ZO Skin Health
Does your product work for African-Americans?
Hi, Natalie:
In fact, I started my working career 30 plus years ago treating different skin ethnicities, many of whom had been untreated, or mistreated. At the time, dermatologists seemingly knew only how to treat white bread. So I saw a lot of problem cases. It was at an American Academy of Dermatology meeting 20 years ago that I taught physicians how to treat skintypes of all different ethnicities. There has been some improvement since then, but there is still progress to be made.
So yes, both of my brands–Obagi and ZO Skin Health–are suitable for all skin types. I wouldn’t have it any other way.
The tolerance, concerns and problems differ some times, but the fundamentals of treating skin are the same.
Zein Obagi, MD
My 9 year old daughter, who if filipino, just started several months ago having several patches of light discooration on her face. She doesn’t have any symptoms. It now seems to have increased. Should I be worried? The patches are very light, so I havent relly thought nothing of it till it increased.
Hi, Aleyna:
Changes in skin color can be the result of many different skin conditions. They may be a symptom of some other, seemingly unrelated condition. The fact that she’s so young, and you’re seeing changes, concerns me. I suggest that you seek prompt medical attention.
Sorry that I can’t help you more but I believe that you would be better served by getting a professional consultation locally.
Zein Obagi, MD
Thank you for this information! I have been wondering if any of the therapies that treat discoloration (microdermabrasion, etc.) would work for me, and now know not to use them. I have never seen this kind of information about Asian skin before, but experience many of the issues that you mention, including sensitivity and hyperpigmentation.