It’s an urban myth that skin goes to sleep at night. So let’s FACE THE FACTS.
There are a lot of reasons why skincare products need to be applied at night. In fact, it can be easily argued that nighttime products are more important than daytime, because that’s when the skin repairs itself.
- During the day, skin is bombarded with wind, makeup, pollution, sweating, and all of this exhausts the cells. Why? Because the sole purpose of skin is to protect our bodies from outside insults and contaminants. So during the daytime, the skin is busy defending itself from these environmental factors. That’s why, during the day, we apply products that strengthen, hydrate and protect with skin with antioxidants (topically and systemically) and UV protectors. At night, it’s ready to get ready for another day. That’s the time when the cells renew themselves and need to be activated with key ingredients like retinol; surface repair agents, such as ceramides; and anti-inflammatory agents, such as botanicals. These all work together to create skin that is brighter, more even-toned, and hydrated.
So nighttime products are different from daytime products, because the skin’s needs are different. - Many active ingredients in skincare products have a relatively short life, and are deactivated by sunlight. So the really important ingredients—the really good stuff—is rendered useless. So by nighttime, there’s no residual value. Products need to be reapplied.
- During the daytime skincare products are rubbed off, sweated off, washed off, wiped off. Or they’re completely absorbed. Moisturizers last only 3-4 hours. Medical treatments require application 2-3 times every 24 hours. I’m a proponent of saturating the skin with active and powerful ingredients so that it’s nourished throughout the day and night.
- Nighttime products are heavier, to restore essential moisture, reduce wrinkles and repair the skin. They provide what we call barrier protection—to prevent transepidermal water loss (dehydration). Then in the morning, your skin is supple, revitalized and smooth.
- The active ingredients used in nighttime products are better able to stimulate and up-regulate cell turnover so that fresher, brighter, healthier skin can emerge.
- Nighttime is a perfect opportunity for controlled release of active ingredients over a 4-6 hour period. It is also a good time to layer products which may not be possible during the daytime if makeup is to be applied overtop.
- Finally, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the importance of cleansing as a part of a night- time skincare program. Many people, I’m convinced, take the short-cut of not removing their make-up before retiring. Our faces are never covered, they’re always exposed to all kinds of environmental pollutants. Cleanse your skin, faithfully and thoroughly to remove the dirt and surface oils. It’s important for everyone, but critical for women who wear cosmetics. Sounds a bit extreme, I know, but you may even want to do it twice. It’s that important.
You may be tired, you may be stressed. But nighttime skincare is important. And it only takes a minute.
Zein Obagi, MD
Dear Dr.Obagi,
I first want to let you know that since after consulting with you,to begin to incorporate ZO Skin Health products into my NuDerm Maintenance regimen, the issues I was experiencing before that have greatly improved.
Regarding nightime skin care, thank you for explaining the logical reasons we should all take particularily more care and time with our nightime regimen. I have been a firm believer in this for years now and am sure to take care of my face, no matter how tired I am which is not always easy for any of us. It is the same logic used for taking oral antioxidants and vitamins in the evening as well.
When I was in college, I would not always wash my face before retiring and went to bed with makeup on too. Fortunately, somewhere along the line I “woke up” and rea;ized that the face I went to bed with is the one I wake up to in the morning. Granted, no surprise there but when I looked at it that way I realized that I wanted to wake up to rested, clean face and not with the “face” from the night before!
Thank you for going into detail why we should take greater steps at nightime to clean and nourish our skin. You provided very informative, statistical, timeline information that I was not aware of and will definitely heed your advise.
Many, many thanks,
Anne
I’ve enjoyed reading your blog posts. My husband and I are both in the US Navy and have been based all over the world. In many of those places, the name Obagi is well known and well respected. I’ve never been to Beverly Hills, and may never be there. So it’s great to read your blogs via cyberspace.
I’ll be subscribing to your feed and I hope you write again soon!
My first comment here and I’m going to keep it short & sweet as I have a lot more reading to do ! Thanks for the great blog, I know I appreciate the time and effort it takes to keep these sites current !
I am currently using ZO skin health ommerse, growth factor serum, oclipse and eye cream. I am wondering how much retinol is found in your products and if it should be a concern to me, as I am recently pregnant. Topically, retinoids are purported to absorb only minimally, and therefore not reach a fetus in significant amounts, but I was hoping to get confirmation or advice on this issue. Thanks.
Hi, Susan:
You’re right to be concerned, and it’s good to ask questions. Challenge everything. There’s nothing more important at this time than the health of your baby and your own peace of mind.
The retinol content in our products varies widely. While I am a fan of putting in high concentrations of active ingredients, we can’t do that with every product–it would be superfluous and unnecessary. The products you mention are perfectly OK to use while pregnant. While there is no data to indicate that topical retinoids are damaging to the unborn baby, physicians like to be extra-cautious.
If you are using Radical Night Repair, you may want to terminate its use while you’re pregnant. There’s nothing to be concerned about–no cause for alarm–but let’s take care of what’s most important (your baby!) first.
Zein Obagi, MD
I’m at that age (or maybe past: 49) that I think my skin needs more than I am giving it. I use a basic sunscreen during the day and since I still break out, I use Retin A at night (.05%). My skin is very sensitive to skin care and I’ve been using the same sunscreen and cleanser and tretinoin cream for almost 30 years.
I recently heard of your product line and was excited that you use retinol. Would your night cream be a good substitute for Retin A? Would it treat my tendency toward acne?
I see you have a serum and night cream. Are they to be used together?
Thank you.
Allison
My biggest concerns are the “marionette” folds around my mouth and loss of elasticity around chin area.
What, if anything, can you do about loss of elasticity?
Beth
Hi, Beth:
Unfortunately, I can’t give you a lot of encouragement—there’s no over-the-counter product that will help with marionette lines. In my practice I use fillers—like Juvederm and Sculptra—for that. It’s quick, easy, and relatively painless (albeit, not necessarily cheap).
As for the elasticity—that depends of where it is. For your face, it’s important to activate and stimulate the skin cells to resume producing collagen and elastin—and the best way to do that is with active Vitamin A—consider the ZO Skin Health DNA Repair Kit. You need to wake up those skin cells, which go dormant at about age 30.
In the neck/chin area, I think that’s a rite of passage—once you hit middle age. It’s also influenced by genetics. There’s surgery, of course, but I prefer facial exercises—tilt your head back, open your mouth wide, and then chose, repeat 25 times and do 3 sets—every day. As you tone the muscles, your skin will get firmer and tighter.
Zein Obagi, MD
Hi Dr. Obagi,
Currently I’am here in RIyadh Saudi Arabia, and having a big problem with my pimples. I’ve tried so many medications(i.e neutrogena facilal bar,panoxyl) but still the pimples occurs most specially when my period is near. what can I do to lessen the pimples in my face?
Hello Ivy,
There are several grades of acne (the degree of the acne condition), and successful treatment is dependent on the grade. I do not know how old you are, but can tell you if you are having adult acne you should seek the advice of a medical professional. Cleansing (which seems to be the only method you have been treating your acne), while very important, is not a solution to treat acne. Luckily, in Saudi Arabia, many of the centers that carry the ZO Skin Health products, also carry the stronger medical, Obagi Nu-Derm line. There are components from both systems that are very effective for your acne. With respect to the ZO Skin Health line, the Exfoliating Polish (used for 1 minute) every morning, followed by another 1 minute of cleansing with the Exfoliating Cleanser, and finally, using the Tepads (One pad swiped for the entire face until dry) and the evening using the Exfoliating Cleanser and Tepads (skip the Exfoliating Polish at night) will provide you more beneficial results and ingredients to properly cleanse your skin and begin treating your acne. Then depending on the grade of your acne, an Obagi Center may add components of the Obagi Nu-Derm system (stronger, Tretinoin based line) or decide additional ZO Skin Health products are sufficient. You can click on the “locations” link to obtain the address and phone number of your nearest center.
Thank you,
Zein E. Obagi, MD
HI Dr. Obagi,
I am 25 years old only. The treatments here in Saudi Arabia are so expensive, I cannot afford to go to one your clinics. On the other hand may I ask if i can just take COACCUTANE tablet.
My pimples are not all over my face, it’s just in the area of my chin. Also one problem i have that i think also contributing for me to have pimples is my period. Last June i didn’t have my period then in July i have then suddenly this August I didn’t have again. Do you think this also contribute with my pimples?
Thank you and hope to hear from you soon..More power to you.
Best regards,
Ivy
Wanted to Ask how much a good diet affects skin care in the longer run? , Also how good will it be in terms of skin hydration and dryness?