The speedometer on my car goes to 160 mph. I’ve never actually driven that fast; I don’t know if the car actually goes that fast either. It’s a moot point, really. There’s so much traffic on the freeways in California that we’re happy to drive 65 mph, and that’s on a good day.
Having a speedometer that goes to 160 mph is just a numbers game. So let’s face the facts.
Skin care companies are trying to race each other in the SPF (sun protection factor) game, and it’s just a numbers game. In 2008, Coppertone came out with an SPF of 70. Neutrogena showed them up with Ultra Sheer Dry Touch, with SPF 85. Now Banana Boat is me-too’ing them with an SPF 85 spray. But Neutrogena is one-upping them again with an SPF 100 sunblock.
Consumers need to get smart. In this case, more is not necessarily better.
Contrary to what may seem to be conventional logic, an SPF 100 doesn’t offer twice the protection of an SPF 50. SPF protection does not increase proportionally with an increased SPF number. For example,
Therefore, an SPF 100 only gives you 1% more protection than an SPF 50. Not a heck of a lot. I’m not a proponent of sunscreens with SPF greater than 30 or 35 or 40, and here’s why:
- Ultra-high SPFs give people a false sense of security. Like they offer “all day protection”, which they don’t. Or they’re “waterproof”. Baloney. They get sweated-off and rubbed off. When you’re outdoors, sunscreens can and should be reapplied. A higher SPF does not necessarily mean better sun protection.
- In order to get that extra protection, manufacturers need to add more chemicals— like oxybenzone, sulisobenzone and Parsol 1789 (aka avobenzone). Unless you’re a major stock- holder in Dow Chemical, don’t use more chemicals than necessary. Your skin doesn’t need it.
- What’s more important than the SPF number, is the amount of sunscreen that is applied. Use a full shot glass for your body, which is about 1 oz. Slather it all over. If you’re in the sun during mid-day, reapply every hour or two.
- No one needs an SPF 100 unless they don’t plan on taking a shower for the next week. An SPF100 means that you could stay in the sun for 100 hours longer than you can without sunscreen, without burning. Assuming that it takes about an hour to burn—exactly why would anyone stay in the sun for 100 hours? Given that there’s about 12 hours of sunlight a day, that’s more than 8 days, without showering. Now, really.
- The problem is not the SPF factor, the problem is that most people don’t wear sunscreen at all! In fact, one third of all Americans don’t. Watch this. (segment from from ABC News) http://cosmos.bcst.yahoo.com/up/player/popup/?rn=3906861&cl=13589779&ch=4226723&src=news.
Moral of the story: Use a sunscreen that you like, that is effective, and reapply it frequently.
Enjoy the summer with friends and family. And please wear sunscreen.
Zein Obagi, MD
Dr. Obagi:
Your tinted sunscreen–Oclipse–what skin tones is it appropriate for?
Hi, Alice–
Not everyone can use Oclipse successfully, although maybe 85-90% can. About the only people for whom it is not a good match are very fair skinned people, and African Americans with a blue under-tone. If you’d like a sample to test compatibility with your skin, send an email to our customer service department– smunz@zoskinhealth.com, and you can see if it’s a good match.
Zein Obagi, MD
Dear Dr Zein Obagi, MD
I am currently using your Obagi Nu-Derm Treatment for 6 weeks now and it is brilliant! My question is about the Healthy Skin Protection SPF 35 from the Nu-Derm Range. I am afro carribean and live in England and find the Healthy Skin Protection very white on my skin and when it soaks in I get a gray ashen tone. Can I use another sun protection whilst on the Nu-Derm Treatment and after the blue peel or should I only use the protection that is in the Nu-Derm kit? I have looked around and have found a Grace Aloe Sun Block broad spectrum SPF 30+. The Active ingredients are: Octyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5% w/w, Octocrylene 5.0% w/w and Zinc Oxide 4.0% w/w. This sun block does not leave me with an ashen tone but do you think this is ok to use with the obagi treatment? I would love to try the the sun block from your ZO range but Selfridges in London,UK no longer sells ZO and Harrods, London UK never has a ZO consultant available at the counter for me to ask to try a sample.
Thank you for your time in reading my dilemma, I would be greatful Dr Obagi for your advice on this.
Sincerely
Anzel
Hi, Anzel:
The brand of sunscreen isn’t as important as the characteristics– here’s what to look for: (1) a physical sunblock ( titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are the only two physical sunblocks); (2) SPF 30 or 40 (go much higher than that, and you’ll see they include chemical sunscreens like Parsol 1789 and Octyl Methoxycinnamate, which can be harmful); and (3) one without fragrance. As you know Oclipse is tinted (so that you don’t get the Casper effect–or look like a geisha girl), and it works for just about everybody. There are only two skin types that it doesn’t work for–very fair skin, and African-Americans with a blue tint to their skin. Hopefully you’re neither of those.
As for Harrod’s–we do have a representative who works there full time, her name is Lilya, but apparently you’ve missed her. If you speak to someone else in the apothecary, someone should be able to help you.
Hope that works, and I apologize for the delay in responding to you–I was trying to find out what the problem is with Harrods!
Zein Obagi, MD
Dear Dr Zein Obagi, MD
Thank you for advice to my sunscreen dilemma it was well noted! I spoke to Lilya at Harrods, she kindly sent me a sample of the Oclipse sunscreen and some ZO info at the cost of a Postage & Packing charge. This suited me well as I have to travel over 300 miles to get Harrods (and each time I went i missed her). She advised me to next time call her and book an appointment before traveling so I can guarantee she will be there when I finish the Obagi Nu-derm 16 week programme. The Oclipse sunscreen suits me better than the Healthy Skin Protection SPF35 I feel much happier. Its definitely nice to be secure knowing you have the best ingredients and your knowledge in all the Obagi/ZO products.
Thanks again
Anzel
Dr. Obagi:
Your website says that Oclipse is now backordered. When will it be back in stock??? Where can I buy it???
Sue
Hi, Sue:
Thanks for the heads-up! Dr. Obagi asked me to respond to you. We’re not actually out of stock on the Oclipse sunscreen/special offer that is currently on the website. But over the weekend Oclipse was featured on AOL, and then again yesterday and today on Good Day, LA (a TV show), so our fulfillment center couldn’t keep sufficient inventory on their shelves.
We’re currently restocking it, and hopefully will be able to begin shipping Oclipse (with the free mini) today.
Sue Munz
Customer Service
Hi Sue,
I emailed you this morning CST and I cetainly appreciate your personally contacting me regarding Oclipse Sunscreen + Primer SPF 30.
I will certainly order some today but I will contact you directly by phone first.
Thank you so much for the follow through!
Sincerely,
Anne
Hello Sue,
Just successfully completed my order transaction for the Oclipse Sunscreen + Primer SPF 30 and many, many thanks to you for your timely follow up.
It is extremely kind of you to extend a gift to me and I look forward to receiving it in addition to my ZO Skin Health products.
Have a terrific weekend and remember to wear your sunscreen!
Sincerely,
Anne
Dear Sue,
Just wanted you to know that I received my full-size containers of Oclipse Sunscreen + Primer yesterday. Prior to that I have been using the samples and I really like it.
Healthy Skin Protection is and excellent suncreen, as if I have to tell you that but I much prefer the Oclipse. I love losing the Casper-complex, especially since I am already very fair-skinned English. I can avoid trying to compensate for the loss of color by trying to add a face tint compatible with my skin care products which was causing some issues too.
I still have a tube and a half of Healthy Skin Protection so I can use it elsewhere or just hang on to it as a fail-safe.
Anyway, I am a loyal fan and FYI: I was in my doctor’s office yesterday and their makeup artist remarked that “My skin was already looking better”…
Sincerely,
Anne
Hello Anne,
Glad that you received the Oclipse Sunscreen. Several of my customers have written that with their improved complexion–and just a little tint from Oclipse–they have been able to eliminate or significantly reduce their use of foundation… so nice for the summer months, isn’t it…
I just learned that today a few NBC TV news shows featured Oclipse as one of the best products to splurge on… I haven’t gotten to actually see the clips yet, though.
Thanks again, and I am glad that you (and your doctor’s office) are noticing a difference already. Sincerely, Sue
I am Chinese and have a LOT of freckles. Could this be a result of wearing sunscreen (not zinc oxide or titanium dioxide) daily while in my 20’s (current age 43)?
Your sunscreen is very light and sheer. How much is needed for application to the face? I live in San Diego.
Chia:
Freckles are a result of over-production of melanin—your skin’s natural response to protect you from the sun’s rays. So if you wore sunscreen in your 20’s, possibly it provided insufficient protection, you didn’t apply it enough, or you didn’t reapply it as necessary. So you have asked a good question.
Besides the zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, the Oclipse sunscreen has another feature—it contains melanin—which is nature’s best photo-protectant. So it too helps to absorb and deflect the UV rays.
As for amount—2-3 pumps for your face and neck should be sufficient. If you’re outdoors, it should be reapplied every 2-3 hours. Indoors, just one application in the morning is sufficient.
If you’re headed to the beach, try to use 1 oz.–imagine a shot glass full–all over your body. I like Neutrogena sunscreens with an SPF of 30 or higher.
San Diego has a lot of sun–enjoy!
Dr. Obagi,
I am 57 and have been using the NuDerm system principally to even out my skin tone. Clear, Sunfader and Blender with 4% Hydroquinone feature prominently in my daily routine. I did not care for the Obagi Healthy Skin Protection and switched to Elta MD 45 which contains only physical blocks. I like the Elta MD a lot, but am reading about Oclipse sunscreen with melanin. Should anyone using the Obagi NuDerm system for melasma use Oclipse if the idea of hydroquinone, as I understand it, is to surpress the production of melanin in the melanocytes?
Hi, Nancy:
You ask a good and intelligent question; so here’s an intelligent answer (hopefully, not too technical).
The melanin in Oclipse is entrapped in a polymeric system so it sits on top of the skin and helps to protect from damage. It doesn’t penetrate the skin so it can’t reach the melanocytes.
Melanin is the most potent and effective antioxidant as it dissipates 99.9% of the free radicals it comes in contact with. Not only does Oclipse not have an adverse effect when used in combination with the NuDerm system, it is an excellent complement to NuDerm because it blocks the UVA/UVB rays and free radicals which stimulate melanin production.
Zein Obagi, MD
How much “Sun” should you be getting? I have heard that you should be in the sun without sunscreen for 15 minutes a day or you don’t make enough vitamin D. Then I heard that we get enough sun in 5 minutes to make enough vitamin D in the body for a month. Which is right? How do I use my sunscreen correctly?
Hi, LInda:
The most effective way to obtain adequate levels of vitamin-D is a source of debate, as to whether one should obtain it through supplements or the sun. A very basic science lesson is in order, which will allow you to make the best determination based on your lifestyle and state of health.
Vitamin-D is a fat soluble vitamin necessary for normal and healthy bone growth and prevention of conditions such as, osteoporosis (for adults) along with calcium. It is an absolutely essential vitamin for normal bone development in infants and children. Vitamin-D deficiencies can cause bones to become thin and brittle – and in extreme cases rickets in children. Other proponents cite Vitamin D’s immune boosting abilities, prevention of certain cancers, etc., although these are not well documented yet.
Vitamin-D is NOT naturally present in very many foods. Foods that contain vitamin-D are usually fortified such as, milk, breakfast cereal, infant formulas, some orange juice brands (w/calcium), and others. The Recommended Dietary Allowance is about 400 IU a day. If a food item has been fortified with vitamin-D, the label must list the amount of vitamin-D present. A good habit is to read the nutritional labels on the food products you consume… Most of us focus on the fat and calorie content, but skip other important information such as, vitamin-D.
As a result, to prevent vitamin-D deficiencies there is a debate between advocates of taking it in supplement form, and those that believe exposure to UVB rays (Ultraviolet B radiation) is the most effective method to obtain vitamin-D.
With respect to obtaining vitamin-D levels from UVB exposure, geography, pollution levels, climate/weather, and SKIN TYPE are important factors that affect vitamin-D synthesis – less possible synthesis during winter months, cloudy days, darker skin types, etc. For people in colder climates, or areas with ongoing cloud cover during certain months of the year, a supplement is a better choice. Still apply your sunscreen!!! Those more damaging UVA rays are longer and present even on a cloudy day.
Obviously, a sunscreen that blocks UVB rays is going to prevent vitamin-D synthesis. However, most of the time people don’t even apply enough sunscreen on their body to protect against UVB rays, nor do they reapply sunscreen every 2 hours as recommended.
If you’re in So. California or areas where it is possible to have enough UVB rays throughout the whole year, do NOT rely on your facial skin for vitamin-D absorption from the sun. Your vitamin-D intake from the sun does NOT have to occur from your facial skin. Skin on your face only represents between 5 to 9% of your total body surface area, a very small proportion of your total overall body. You are better off exposing your back, legs or stomach to the sun for about 10 minutes a day INSTEAD of your face – larger surface area, faster absorption. Facial skin tends to be the most heavily sun damaged area. Remember UV radiation is a carcinogen and the greatest source of photo-damage, premature aging, and other negative skin conditions. Skin cancer is highly prominent on the face. Do yourself a favor, and get your 10- minutes in the sun while still protecting your face. A physical block with an SPF of 30 at a minimum is my recommendation.
Sandra Obagi, MBA
Medical Esthetics
Dr. Obagi,
I’m currently on the NuDerm system & I’d like to know if I can use Oclipse Sunscreen + Primer. This sunscreen hydrates & moisturizes your skin which I know you’re not supposed to use moisturizer while on the system. Please advise.
Thank you
Hello Selina,
Thanks for the email. You have quite the passion we like about properly using the Obagi Nu-Derm system. Yes, with respect to conventional moisturizers you do want to avoid these during the first 6-8 weeks of the Obagi Nu-Derm system for optimal results. However, this does NOT apply to the Oclipse sunscreen. You can definitely utilize this sunscreen during your treatment with the Obagi Nu-Derm system. It will NOT slow down your program or interfere with the correction process. Yes, it has elements to hydrate the skin, but at the same time it provides skin with natural melanin (a natural anti-oxidant), does not promote acne breakouts, protects skin against a broad spectrum of damaging UV rays. It will cover redness from the program and does not leave the white film conventional sunscreens leave behind. It is NOT more hydrating than the Obagi Healthy Skin Protection, or other Obagi based sunscreens. You will love this product. It is by far one of our patient’s most desired and requested product. Thanks.
Best,
Sandra Obagi
Medical Esthetician
Dr. Obagi,
I’m on my 7th wk of the Obagi Nu-Derm system. I was wondering if I could have facials or diamond peel at this time. Thank you.
Hello Selina,
When you say “Diamond Peel” are you referring to a crystal-free microdermabrasion? If so, yes you can have one or a facial. Just make sure to let the esthetician performing the facial or microderm know that you are using Tretinoin Cream (Retin-A in the Nu-Derm). That way, she can lower the parameters (settings) and perform less passes, as to not irritate your skin. With respect to facials, it is best to “skip” the steaming step, especially if she utilizes a hot steamer. To be on the safe side, stop your Tretinoin & Blender step about 3 days prior to having a facial/micro-derm. You can continue to use all other creams. I perform DiamondTome microderms and certain facials on my Nu-Derm patients. Correctly performed, it is perfectly “okay.” Best,
Sandra Obagi
Medical Esthetician
Cumulative effect, anyone? (And I take five minutes to burn.) I’ll keep my SPF 100 that “only” blocks 1% more than SPF 50.