Q: I used to get by with only 3 steps (cleanse, tone, moisturize), but have been advised to start using products for hyper-pigmentation. While I have seen some results, it is a lot of steps, and I wonder if all this layering is actually good for my skin. Can you recommend a line with fewer steps?
KD, Waller, TX
A: Oops. You want me to recommend FEWER steps, and I’m going to recommend MORE steps! I’m not being contradictory, but doing as you ask would not necessarily be doing you any favors.
Some day there may be one product that cleanses-tones-activates-stimulates-moisturizes-protects. But not soon. Just look how long it has taken companies like Revlon and P&G to develop a single product that both shampoos and conditions. Even though a shampoo/conditioner has been on the market for 20+ years, it has never caught on in the US (partially because of the difficulty of combining the raw materials and active ingredients, partially because it’s not as efficient at either cleansing or conditioning).
Ditto with skincare products. If we combined too many active ingredients, one would invariably de-activate or de-stabilize another. Plus there can’t be one generic skincare product, because there isn’t one generic skin type. People’s needs are different.
There are several things wrong with the regimen you mention—(1) you’re missing what dermatologists consider to be the most important step—sunscreen. It’s critical for both younger-looking as well as healthier skin. (2) to avoid pigmentation issues, elasticity problems, lines and wrinkles, you need to stimulate the skin cells. For this you need active Vitamin A—and peptides, growth factors and anti-oxidants, (3) using a moisturizer, while excluding some of these other ingredients, will make your skin cells lazy and function improperly. Don’t make that mistake!
Not to worry about too much layering—your skin will appreciate the attention that it gets. Just make sure to apply the products in the right order—from lightest to heaviest—so that they can be absorbed properly.
So I can’t recommend just one product—but you may want to try a kit—The ZO Skin Health DNA Repair kit combines the most important products—all at a value-price.
Is it OK to use the Growth Factor Serum in AM and PM or is this a waste of product? thanks
Hello Marianne,
You can definitely apply the Growth Factor Serum both AM and PM. That is exactly what I do. I apply the GFS on top of my Daily Power Defense in the morning and in the evening as my last step (unless I need the Ommerse on top). Even when I use the Obagi Nu-Derm system Blender + Tretinoin step, I add the GFS on top. The GFS is an epidermal growth factor. It shrinks pores, tightens skin, reduces pigmentation and prevents and corrects fine lines and wrinkles. The best part is that it has anti-inflammatory properties, so one is less red with use. It’s entirely up to you, whether you want to apply PM only or both AM and PM.
Best,
Sandra Obagi, MBA
Medical Esthetician
I have been using nu derm for a year now, and found out about this line from a tv show on skincare. I would love to add a moisturizer to my NuDerm program. I have concerns of fine lines and wrinkles, beginning signs of losing elasticity. I would love to try some samples so I can slowly add this line into my skincare regime. I am also interested in the hand care and body moisturizer. thank you
Hi, Rochelle:
We’d be happy to send you samples of the hand care products, body emulsion, and both the AM and PM Ommerse products. Your skin will appreciate the added hydration–and there’s an added bonus–the Ommerse products are what Dr. Obagi calls “functioning moisturizers”–meaning they do more than just hydrate, they keep your skin active.
If you want to buy the hand products, I’d recommend the Hand Care Kit–it’s a much better value!
Let us know what you think. Thanks!
Sue Munz
Customer Service
Five years ago a Dr. treated me for bad case of Melasma. He started me on Obagi Nu Derm . Since the I used the Obagi products faithfully.
The following is my weekly routine:
Each morning I use the Foam Gel, Toner, Professional_C Serum 20%, Clear, Exfoderm Forte, Sunfader and Healthy Skin Protection.
Every other night I use Foam Gel, Toner, Clear, Blender and Retin-A.
I can say that I have never enjoyed healthy looking skin, until now. With the use of Obagi Nu Derm products I no longer use make-up and my skin looks great! People can not believe that I do not use any kind of make-up. Thanks to Obagi i can show off my bare skin!
However, my question is: should I substitute Nu Derm for Obagi ZO products, if so which product (s)? I am so afraid to discontinue the use of Nu Derm products and have the Melasma return along with large pores.
Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Maria
Hello Maria,
Do not substitute your Obagi Nu-Derm system with the ZO Skin Health products (ZO), especially since you are maintaining your skin and you previously had melasma. The point of the ZO products in instances such as yourself, is to complement the program and not replace it. The ZO can and will enhance the results you currently receive on your maintenance program with the Obagi Nu-Derm system. It is a perfect circle of skin health, where ZO can be used in-conjunction with your Nu-Derm system and on your “off” days from your Obagi Nu-Derm system.
Melasma is a chronic condition that can easily reoccur. HQ (hydroquinone) as found in the Clear and Blender has temporary effects on melanocytes. Within 2 weeks of completely stopping HQ, it is completely out of your skin, and you can reactivate color cell formation. So, it should be used at least 3 times a week.
The program you described above is PERFECT. My only rcommendation is for you to add the Daily Power Defense after you apply CLEAR (before Exfoderm-Forte in the AM) on your Nu-Derm days and as your last step before sunscreen on your off-days.
I would also recommend that you begin treating your area and keep it as youthful as your facial skin. Incorporating the Olluminate 2 times a day, as your last step at night and the last step before Sunscreen will correct and prevent fine lines and wrinkles.
Since you’re not exfoliating your skin as often as you used to with the Retin-A & Blender, the Exfoliating Polish is a great addition to your program. Keep it in the shower for use about 3 times a week, prior to washing your skin. Use it on your wet skin, without pressure. The magnesium crystals warm up (round and smooth, will not nick skin) to remove excess dead skin cells.
All other ZO products that you like such as the Oclipse Sunscreen, Exfoliating Cleanser can be interchanged with your Nu-Derm products as well. Just don’t stop the program you detailed above. If you are interested in incorporating any other products, feel free to send me an email. Thank you.
Best,
Sandra Obagi, MBA
Medical Esthetician
For four months I have been on an Obagi NuDerm maintenance program (Clear 3 times a wk, Exfoderm 3 times a wk (on alternate days from clear) and using Tret. mixed with blender every other night)
I don’t have a lot of concerns; with makeup I look great, but after cleansing etc, my skin doesn’t feel dry but it looks dry and/or dull.
Would you still recommend using any of the ZO skin care products.?
Thank you, Mimi
Hello Mimi,
I have certain patients that have expressed the same concerns with the Nu-Derm system. The dry/dull appearance in skin that you are describing has an easy fix with a few great recommendations. This slight modification will totally restore that vitality to skin within the first 2 weeks. Your skin just needs some help removing the dead skin cells that are accumulating on your skin, which give the dull appearance and the sensation of dryness. Once we have your skin cells regenerating properly, you will feel naturally hydrated. In addition, you will notice enhanced results and effects from your use of the Obagi Nu-Derm system.
Incorporate the Exfoliating Polish into your program about 3 days a week to start. Gradually increase to daily use in the shower once you feel or gage your skin can handle daily use. The polish is used in the morning only prior to washing your face for one minute. It is best to massage gently for a minimum of one minute in the shower while skin is wet, as you can easily rinse the magnesium crystals off. Follow by washing your face.
Apply the Daily Power Defense every morning (regardless of Nu-Derm use) after the Toner step (or Cleanser). On days you apply the Clear (3 times a week) apply the Clear as your next step.
Either after you apply the Clear (3 days a week) or the Daily Power Defense (the other 4 days) follow by applying the Ommerse Daily Renewal Cream. This is a functional moisturizer, meaning it will hydrate your skin, reduce redness/inflammation, and promote the growth of new and healthy skin cells as a result of the Retinol presence. Finally, Apply the Oclipse Sunscreen. This sunscreen contains natural melanin, an anti-oxidant that will brighten skin, and give you one even color. It is an excellent primer. Most of my patients do NOT use powder or foundation after trying the Oclipse.
Finally, if you are able to do so, try using the Ossential Growth Factor Serum as your last step every night. This epidermal growth factor, thickens the epidermis, hydrates, stimulates collagen and elastin, and gives the most amazing glow to skin. On days you use the Retin-A & Blender step, it is applied on top. Use 1-2 pumps for your entire face.
Best,
Sandra Obagi, MBA
Medical Esthetician
Hi Sandra,
Thanks for the advice on adding ZO to my Nuderm maintenance regime. You didn’t address what products to use on the days I am using Exfoderm on alternate days from clear, (Tuesday,Thurs.& Sat) On Sundays I don’t use any product.
I will definitely try the products you recommend.
Mimi
Hello Mimi,
I am sorry if my response was not clear enough before, so let me try again. During NuDerm maintenance, you reduce the frequency of applications of NuDerm products. ZO Skin Health products can be used every day; NuDerm products are generally used on alternating days (for ex., Monday-Wednesday-Friday).
For example, here’s what your regimen may look like
Monday-Wednesday-Friday–AM
NuDerm Cleanser
Toner
Clear
ZO Skin Health Daily Power Defense (optional)
Exfoderm
Sunscreen
Monday-Wednesday-Friday–PM
NuDerm Cleanser
Toner
Tretinoin and Blender
Tuesday-Thursday-Saturday–AM
NuDerm Cleanser
Exfoliating Polish
Toner
ZO Skin Health Daily Power Defense (optional)
Sunscreen
Tuesday-Thursday-Saturday–PM
NuDerm Cleanser
Toner
ZO Skin Health Ossential Growth Factor Serum
ZO Skin Health Ommerse Overnight Recovery Creme (This is a functional moisturizer, meaning it will hydrate your skin, reduce redness/inflammation, and promote the growth of new and healthy skin cells)
Hope that helps; let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks,
Sandra Obagi
hi there, i’m 19 years old but look a lot older than my age. At my age this shouldnt even begin to be a concern but it is. My problem has always been elasticity, my cheeks are beggining to sag and im barely at the end of my teen years so i wonder how i will look when i am 30 if i dont find a cure to my skin issues. Im also starting to get 2 wrinkles on my forehead. i have mild acne but since i try using so many different produts it becomes very acne prone, sometimes i have more than 20 zits in the transition of using different products. I also have blackheads on my nose and cheecks i would say my pores are not large but in the midde. My recent skin routine consists of lush products which are all natural but still my skin looks dull and dead and i always use neutrogenas sunscreen. I do admit half a year ago i lived an unhealthy life style were i consumed all kinds of junk food you can think of and still now i have trouble not going towards the pi zza, i have never smoked or drank any kind of alcohol though, and i do exercise often now and eat more fruits. Either way im sure i cannot get all the answer to my questions by an online response but dermatologists are so expensive and im a college student i cannot afford it right now. Any sugestions would really help im really desperate and concern about my skin every time i go out i get “compliments” like im 25 or 30 and i can easily get into a club people think its a good thing or its funny but it only makes me feel worst therefore any kind of help i can get would be great.
Hello Katie,
19 years old and you’re still breaking out- An indication of adult acne. It is almost impossible to pinpoint the underlying source of your breakouts (genetics, hormonal changes, application of improper products, etc) without a visit to your dermatologist. Outside of the Exfoliating Cleanser (use every AM and PM for one minute minimum) and the Tepads (Used AM and PM) after cleansing – I am hesitant to recommend any other course of action for your skin. At the very least use of these products will prevent NEW breakouts from occurring and help to reduce the number of acne lesions you currently have. However, you can easily negate these benefits by applying the WRONG products for your skin type and condition. That is why it is time for an expert.
For this reason, I recommend you go to the locations link of this website and see if you live near one of the Personal Appearances that I or one of our other ZO team members will be hosting at certain Nordstrom stores. That way, we can take a closer look at your skin in person. My other recommendation is for you to go to the Obagi website obagi.com and utilize their physician locator, if a PA is not near you. The Nu-Derm system is very effective at reversing signs of aging, preventing new signs of aging, and correcting your acne (all simultaneously). You can make a few calls to the doctors in your area. I have heard that several of them offer “free consults” for starting the Obagi Nu-Derm system. I apologize I cannot do more, but any other advice would cross the ethical boundary, as you are describing true medical conditions. As you are aware, we cannot disseminate “medical advice” online. Free free to send me an email if you have any further questions. Thank you.
Best,
Sandra Obagi, MBA
Medical Esthetician.
I have used Nu Derm since August 2005, should I use it forever? I’ve had great results; however, now I see that ZO has been developed…I’m confused, should I switch? If so, why.
Thank you.
Hello Donna,
Just like you never quit a healthy diet or exercise once desired results are achieved (after a strict regimen), you do not quit the Obagi Nu-Derm system ever. This is a stronger medical-grade brand. The ZO Skin Health, is a very effective and potent line, however, it is a consumer line. It is NOT to substitute your Obagi Nu-Derm system. It complements it by enhancing results and making the Nu-Derm system more comfortable to use.
Using the DNA kit for example on the days you do NOT apply the Obagi Nu-Derm system provides you with enhanced results and constant stimulation of health skin cells. On the days you are applying the Obagi Nu-Derm system (about 3 days a week during maintenance) you can use the Growth Factor Serum after your Tretinoin & Blender step in the evening, the Daily Power Defense right after your Clear step. The Exfoliating cleanser is interchangeable with your Nu-Derm cleanser as is the Oclipse Sunscreen with your Nu-Derm sunscreen. Other great ZO products you can incorporate BUT NOT replace for Nu-Derm include the Ommerse functional moisturizers, the Olluminate Eye Cream, and the Polish for mechanical exfoliation about 2-3 times a week. Thank you.
Best,
Sandra Obagi, MBA
Medical Esthetician
I have had a BBL laser treatments,been using Clear by Obagi (love it) and skinceuticals retinol 1.0. I saw beautiful results after laser and starting Obagi but now my silver dollar hyperpigmentation spots have come back even worse and now I have a dark area over my lip and under my eyes the size of a large pecan. All that money spent for it to come back. What is the best for permanent results? A Peel? Should I keep up with the Obagi Clear ..Does the Phloretin make the spots darker? Thank you for your time. I am a Master Cosmetologist for 20 years, age 35,and good skin, no lines. So what I do is important to me, and my job.
Thank you.
Hello Shanen,
It is imperative to properly pre-treat (prep) and post-treat skin prior to having laser resurfacing, especially if one is prone to pigmentation. Without seeing your skin directly, it is difficult to provide a proper assessment. However, based on what you described, it sounds like you are exhibiting post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. The Obagi Clear alone is not sufficient to treat this (nor is it sufficient to pre-treat with only Clear).
The Skinceuticals product you are describing is Retinol based and NOT retinoic acid. In order to effectively treat hyperpigmentation (and pre-treat for laser or peels), Retinoic acid – Tretinoin 0.1% is necessary. It is used in-conjunction with the Obagi Blender. I advise you to seek the advice of the MD that prescribed the Obagi system and performed the laser. However, I have outlined a program below that OUR Obagi Institute would dispense to someone with PIH. You can show this to a doctor. You will encounter the redness, dryness, peeling etc., consistent with first starting the program. This is temporary. Your MD will be able to better explain all of this. I apologize, but I cannot make an opinion of the other non-Obagi or ZO Skin Health creams you are using, as I am not familiar with these. You can most cost effectively obtain the following creams in the DNA kit. All are in there.
PLEASE make sure to discuss this course of action with your physician first. The program below should be used as a guideline only and representative of how we typically treat PIH.
Morning:
1) Cleanse for ONE minute with the EXFOLIATING CLEANSER
2) Apply Nu-Derm Toner, with a cotton-ball or cotton-pad all over face. Do not rinse (no eye lids).
3) Apply 1-2 pumps of the DAILY POWER DEFENSE (ZO Skin Health)
4) Apply 1 gram of CLEAR* (Nu-DERM) to entire face. Massage for one minute until evenly distributed and absorbed.
5) Apply the Oclipse Sunscreen (ZO) always before going out-doors.
EVENING:
1) Cleanse for ONE minute with the EXFOLIATING CLEANSER
2) Apply Nu-Derm Toner, with a cotton-ball or cotton-pad all over face. Do not rinse (no eye lids).
3)Apply 1 gram of CLEAR* (Nu-DERM) to entire face. Massage for one minute until evenly distributed and absorbed.
4) Mix 1/2 g of Blender (Nu-Derm) with 1/2 g of Tretinon Cream 0.1%: mix in the palm of your hand and apply evenly to entire face. Minimize application around eyes and mouth, as these are more senstive areas and skin is thinner.
5) Apply 1-2 pumps of Growth Factor Serum
OMMERSE Daily Renewal Cream is a Functional Moisturizer for more comfort, hydration, and reduction of the irritation from use of Tretinoin. It’s optional, but can be applied AM before Oclipse and as your last step at Night.
* 1 gram – amount of toothpaste on a toothbrush in thickness and length.
What is the difference between Obagi NuDerm and Obagi Condition and Enhance?
Hello Kellie,
The Obagi Nu-Derm and Condition and Enhance kit are one and the same product line. The Condition and Enhance Kit is a preset package that contains a set of the Obagi Nu-Derm creams. For more information you can visit obagi.com.
Best,
Sandra Obagi, MBA
Medical Esthetician
I use Renova at night & I’m not sure where it fits in–before or after Growth Factor Serum and/or night creme?
Thanks. Lynda
Hello Lynda,
The Growth Factor Serum is used after Retinoic Acid based products. It would be used after your Renova step. Thank you
Best,
Sandra Obagi, MBA
Medical Esthetics
Hello,
What would you recommend for melasma type of discolorations due to birth control. I no longer take the meds. I have had an IPL laser procedure performed 2-3 times with positive effects. Under the eyes I have a distinctively lighter skin then on the rest of my face. The laser eliminated some of the discoloration on my upper cheek area, yet when I attempt to place the A gel close to the eye area (the discolored area), this portion becomes irritated appearing darker for a day directly following the application. I would like to prevent / eliminate any remnants of discolorations. I am rather fair and I have not tanned in over 10 years.
I am currently using Avene thermal water, Peter Thomas Roth AntiAging cleansing gel, La roche posay SPF 50+, MD Skincare Alpha Beta daily face peel, Isotretinoinum 500 – Isotrex gel.
Thank you
DB
Hello DB,
Melasma is a “medical condition” that requires treatment and monitoring by a Dermatologist or Plastic Surgeon. The underlying source of melasma cannot be successfully treated with over-the-counter (OTC) products. This includes using the ZO Skin Health products ALONE. Overactive and unevenly distributed melanocytes (color cells) are located in layers of the skin that OTC creams are unable to reach. In addition, hydroquinone 4% and Tretinoin in the 0.1% cream form are successfully proven protocols to treat this condition. You can find a qualified MD in your area that carries the medical grade Obagi system (Nu-Derm) by visiting the corporate site at obagi.com The Obagi Nu-Derm system is used on the entire face, including around the eye area, and will correct the uneven color tone around your eyes that you are describing. You will not have lines of demarcation between correction – no correction with the Obagi Nu-Derm system (a common problem with lasers or intense pulse light). IPL treatments are excellent to have in-conjunction with your medical program, but NOT as the sole course of treatment. IPL may lighten or improve the condition, but it will NOT correct the problem.
Hopefully, you will be near one of the personal appearances that Dianne, Dr. Obagi, or I will be at. We can at least take a look and give a better assessment based on physically seeing your skin.
There are aspects of the ZO Skin Health creams that can be used successfully with your Obagi Nu-Derm system to enhance results, reduce the temporary irritation with Obagi Nu-Derm, and to provide you with a more luxurious program.
I would have you incorporate the Ommerse Daily Renwal Crème in the morning after having applied the Obagi Nu-Derm creams recommended by your physician (the last step prior to Sunscreen) and the Ommerse Overnight Recovery Crème as your last step in the evening (After your Tretinoin & Blender step). These two functional moisturizers will help to soothe and hydrate your skin, reduce inflammation, and to enhance your results. They make the temporary side effects of the Obagi Nu-Derm system more tolerable.
Also, the Oclipse Sunscreen will be an excellent physical block to protect your skin during correction. It is the last step you apply before going out-doors. It is also a great “primer” to reduce the redness and to even your color tone. Hopefully, you can see a MD to obtain the Clear, Blender & Tretinoin Cream 0.1%, and any other Obagi Nu-Derm products recommended. At that point, I can better help you out.
Best,
Sandra Obagi, MBA
Medical Esthetics
I have finally completed my dedicated 18 weeks Obagi Nu-Derm program two days ago ie 26 September. My progress so far:
Face pigmentation on the face has reduced to 70%. The other 30% of pigmentation seems to have come to a “standstill”. It’s still the same as what it was a month ago.
Neck pigmentation still seems has a long way to go -even though the regime for face and neck started together.
Although, the peeling has stopped now (or very minimal on odd days), however, the skin still remains very dry and red – sometimes it hurts.
Because of the nature of my husband’s job, I travel all over the world, and do not want to find dermatologists in every city.
.1) Now that I have been on the regular NuDerm program for 18 weeks (I had used TriLuma cream for 3 months (Feb 09-April 09) prior to starting the Obagi Nu Derm program in May 09 recommeded by my dermatolgist in UK), and given the stage of my progress described above… Should I continue for some more time on the Regular NuDerm program OR move to the maintenance program. I’m just a little concerned because I have been using hydroqonine on my skin since April 09.
2) Just for information, my Nu Derm products are for Dry Skin. For the past 18 weeks I have been using all Nu Derm products routine described below:
a) AM Routine – Cleanser, Toner, Obagi C serum 15%, Clear, Exforderm, Sunfader and Obagi Sunblock 35
b) PM Routine – Cleanser, Toner, Clear, Blender/Tretinoin 0.1%
I have come this far now – I need help directly from Dr Obagi/his organisation, because it is very difficult for me to stick with one dermatogist for a length of time – due the nature of my husband’s job, which requires us to be in different countries. I am currently in Singapore.
Thank you for your assistance.
Nita
Hello Nita,
First things first, if you are using the Obagi Nu-Derm system with Triluma, you need to stop it immediately. Triluma is an alternative treatment available to treat melasma and photo-damage. It already contains 4% hydroquinone, hydrocortisone, and retinoic acid. Dr. Obagi, doesn’t like the presence of hydrocortisone, as it can cause atrophy with long-term use, and those active ingredients (Rx strength) should not be used with Obagi Nu-Derm. You should be using a standard Tretinoin Cream in the 0.1% concentration.
The ZO products incorporated correctly with the Obagi Nu-Derm system can reduce the dryness and irritation you are describing and enhance your result. It is impossible to provide a “bed-side” consult, even if you have named off your products above, especially if you are not under medical supervision. It would be preferred if you can visit either Dr. Obagi, Dianne, or me at one of our Personal Appearances at Nordstrom (see the Special Events link) OR contact me at the San Gabriel office to determine the best course of action for your next treatment. There is a bit too much information and not enough at the same time, preventing me from providing a full assessment. Feel free to contact one of our offices for more information.
Best,
Sandra Obagi, MBA
Medical Esthetician
Hi Sandra,
Just to clarify my situation. I don’t live in US anymore and I’m based in Asia for the next few years.
I live in Asia hence am not in a postion to visit you in the US at this point.
1)The complication in my case is that I used Triluma for three months (upto April 2009), immediately after which I went on the Obagi NuDerm pogram (from May 2009, on recommendation of my dermtolgist).
2)I have now completed 18 weeks on the Obagi NuDerm program, and the progress has been good so far (about 60% to 70% improvement, but visible pigmentation still remains on my face and neck, I was described as a case of hyper-pigmentation).
3)My question is – should I continue with the regular Obagi program (given that, I had 3 months exposure to Triluma before starting Obagi NuDerm) – or should I move to the Maintenance program.
I am seeking your advise directly because I have moved countries recently (again), and if I go to another dermatologist, I may get different advise – I have developed faith in Obagi Nuderm regime.
Thanks
Nita
Hi Nita,
Thank you for clarifying that you are no longer in the USA. I am happy to help you out to the best of my ability outside of seeing you face-to-face. The Obagi Nu-Derm system does not cause atrophy, so “yes” you can continue to Obagi Nu-Derm system daily, with the regular form of Tretinoin Cream 0.1%. It will help to actually make your epidermis thicker and stronger.
I have tapped Dr. Obagi for his knowledge to workout a program for you.
Since you still have residual pigmentation, we have some work to do. With respect to your neck, the skin on the neck is much thinner (the epidermis is much thinner) and the Tretinoin and Blender, is used far less frequently. I will address your neck routine after the face routine.
I am going to add some components from ZO Skin Health system to enhance your results and reduce the irritation, since I am about to take your program up a notch. Proper use of the program is key to successful results. This includes applying the correct amount of product to skin and in the right order.
First, let’s start with the basics so you understand the program below. 1 gram: is equal to the amount of toothpaste you would put on your toothbrush in thickness and length. Or measure approximately the size of your forefinger (2nd finger) from the tip to the first line. That is the length of 1 gram. The thickness would be the diameter of this area. If I state “1 gram” please measure from the distance of your forefinger from the tip to the first line in thickness and length.
If I state ½ gram, obviously it is half the amount mentioned above.
For the ZO Skin Health creams I am incorporating, these are based on the experience Dr. Obagi and I have, and the boost we always get in results. You can read more about these products at this site, or feel free to ask for specifics.
I want you to follow this program for at least 8 weeks. Thereafter, please contact me to assess:
Morning:
1) Cleanser: Spend one minute thoroughly cleansing your skin using your finger-tips only. Rinse off and dry. Use either the Obagi Foaming Gel OR the ZO Skin Health Exfoliating Cleanser.
2) Toner: Using a cotton-ball or cotton-pad swipe your entire skin. Under the eyes is fine, but no eyelids.
3) Apply 5-7 drops of the Obagi Pro-C 15% to your entire face (no eye lids)
4) Apply 1 gram of Clear to your entire face. Gently massage with your finger-tips until evenly distributed and absorbed. Once 1-gram is in your skin, I want you to take a little more Clear, and apply DIRECTLY on the darker spots only.
5) Exfoderm: Apply ½ gram to your entire face. A thin layer (no eye lids)
6) Growth Factor Serum: Apply 1-2 pumps to your entire face
7) Oclipse Sunscreen: Apply before going out-doors. Enough to cover your skin, no measuring needed.
Evening:
1) Cleanser: Spend one minute thoroughly cleansing your skin using your finger-tips only. Rinse off and dry. Use either the Obagi Foaming Gel OR the ZO Skin Health Exfoliating Cleanser.
2) Toner: Using a cotton-ball or cotton-pad swipe your entire skin. Under the eyes is fine, but no eyelids.
3) Clear: Apply 1 gram of Clear to your entire face, massage gently until evenly distributed and absorbed.
4) Tretinoin 0.1% Cream and Blender: I want you to mix ½ gram of Tretinoin with ½ gram of Blender in the palm of your hand and apply to your entire face. Minimize application around eyes. I then want you to take out a little more Tretinoin Cream and apply directly to the darker spots.
5) 1-2 pumps of the Growth Factor Serum
It is normal for your skin to be quite dry and exfoliate now that we take this up a notch. The Ommerse Over-Night Cream can be used either AM or PM (before Oclipse; Last step at night) to calm skin down. It is a functional moisturizer that will provide you comfort without slowing down the correction process. If you have a party or special event to attend, you would stop the Exfoderm in the AM and the Tretinoin and Blender step at night. Replace these steps with the OMMERSE (all else the same). Do this 3-4 days before an event, and you will be fine.
NECK: far more sensitive than the face. It takes less product and less frequency of the Tretinoin Blender to induce a reaction thus results.
AM Routine:
The Clear (1/2 gra,), Vitamin-C serum (2-3 drops), and 1 pump of the Growth Factor Serum are used on the neck. You can spread product from your face to your neck in the beginning. Apply Sunblock before going out –doors.
Please use the Ommerse as much as you need to on the neck to keep you comfortable.
PM Routine:
Clear; and 1 pump of Growth Factor Serum
TWO DAYS a WEEK (and only this frequency) spread the Tretinoin& Blender from your face down to your neck. Do this step BEFORE the Growth Factor Serum 2 days a week.
I hope this helps, NIta, let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks,
Sandra Obagi
Medical Esthetician
Hi Sandra,
How wonderful that you have taken the time to give me such a detailed reply – this is what I needed. You have also helped me to overcome my anxiety which was caused by having used other hydroquonine products previously.
I will now follow the exactly the instructions you have given me and will report my progress to you in 8 weeks.
Please advise – Do you have a local supplier in Singapore? or do I need to order the new ZO products (Growth Factor Serum, Ommerse & Oclipse directly from US?
Thanks so much.
Nita
Hi, Nita:
Thanks for your nice comment to Sandra; she does enjoy speaking to people about their skincare issues–it’s in her blood, so to speak…
ZO Skin Health products can be purchased at Tang’s on Orchard Road in Singapore.
Please stay in touch and let us know your progress.
Donna Queen
President
ZO Skin Health
Thanks Donna for this information, but more importantly, a special thanks to you for taking interest in my case and putting me in touch with Sandra Obagi so that I could recieve expert advice in my “mobile” circumstances.
All the best! Will be in touch.
Nita
Dear Sandra,
I do greatly appreciate your informative replies to other clients, you just never know what you may have been missing or not doing in your very one daily skin care regimen.
Good news to report now that we’ve “corrected” the my initial eyelid creme applications and my tolerating the Tretinoin 0.1%/Blender. On the right path now,THANK YOU and no noticeable peeling to speak of on the lids.
I am so glad to have both Ommerse Daily Renewal Creme and Overnight Repair Creme, they are both lifesavers for me. After reading some of your replies and considering my skin’s reponses/needs at certain times, I could use your guidance.
Question for you, since I have dry skin and very, very mild rosacea to begin with I find that through the course of skin renewal I sometimes face one if not both of the following:
1.)irritated, temporary condition due to overlapping (user’s error) of
active containing ingredients. Occuring more on my neck lately than
on my face.
2.) peri-oral dryness which for me now a normal thing, minus the typical
shedding.
Sandra, when my skin is feels irritated or feels very dry and I attempt to soothe it by applying the Ommerse Daily Renewal (it’s in the morning and perhaps I’m in a AM/PM hangup-type of mind game sort of thing here).
Have a wonderful weekend and my best to Dr. Obagi,
Anne
Hello Dr. Obagi,
I know smoking is a BIG NO NO, but that’s why i’m willing to spend a lot for my face. I’m really really scared to have a rubber face later. Obagi was introduced to me when i was 24years old and been loyal since then (i’m now 29yrs old). I also just added Zo last year for my maintenance. I just want to know if i’m doing everything right. I don’t have any problem with my skin and I actually have a very smooth skin (thanks to obagi) except for my skin is very thin and you can actually see the veins.
Now, Since i started ZO in my regimen, I want to make sure that i’m doing it all correct. Please tell me what else do i need to add or if this regimen is enough to save my skin.
MON – WED – FRI – SAT – SUN
AM
Cleanser
Toner
C-Serum 20%
Power Defense
ZO Intense eye repair
Nu-Derm SPF 35
PM
Cleanser
Toner
ZO Growth factor
Zo overnight recovery cream (2x a week)
Zo Intense eye repair
TUES – THURS
AM
Cleanser
Toner
C-Serum 20%
Clear
ZO Intense eye repair
Nu-Derm SPF 35
PM
Cleanser
Toner
Clear
Blender and Tretinoin
Zo Intense eye repair
Since i have smooth skin, my dermatologist told me to use NU-DERM maintenance for 2 weeks only and then follow up with the maintenance above for 3 months. I just repeat it over. But, i don’t know if she’s right about using nu-derm for 2 weeks only when i see most of the people that use obagi use it for at least 2, 3 months or so. I feel like something is not right. Can you please guide through and if my maintenance above is correct. I would really appreciate your advice. Thanks!
Elvira
Hello Elvira,
The Obagi Nu-Derm system (in conjunction with ZO or alone) is used daily for 12 to 18 weeks followed by a maintenance routine. On daily use, Tretinoin & Blender is used every evening. During maintenance, the Tretinoin & Blender step is used 2-3 times a week depending on skin type and condition. Clear and Exfoderm (if Exfoderm was in your original program) are used 2-3 times a week as well. If skin has a tendency to easily form pigmentation, freckles, etc. then the Clear should be used more frequently such as, 4 times a week. The other items, Cleanser, Toner, Sunscreen, Pro-C, Eye Cream, etc., and any of the ZO Skin Health products are used daily.
One is on maintenance for approximately 2-3 months, followed by 2 WEEKS of Daily use to shock skin. Daily use, is the Tretinoin & Blender, Exoderm, Clear, etc., used daily as described above. Follow your maintenance routine for 2-3 months; shock your skin for 2-3 weeks, then go back on your maintenance routine…Keep repeating this cycle.
It is important to also be using the right quantity of products; 1 gram of Clear, ½ gram of Blender + ½ gram of Tretinoin Cream 0.1% (or 1 gram of Tretinoin for skin with more severe conditions). These are the quantities whether on maintenance or daily use.
Your program looks adequate. The only issue I see is that you’re using Tretinoin & Blender only ONE day a week. Increase it to at least 2 days a week, and 3 if you can take it. That is the most ideal way to handle maintenance. On the days that you use the Tretinoin & Blender, apply the Ommerse you have on TOP. This will help reduce the irritation that Tretinoin can cause, yet still provide you with results. Best of luck… and that’s great that you started at 24 years-old.. that means you will always keep your skin young and active. Best,
Sandra Obagi, MBA
Medical Esthetician
Hi. I am currently using dermalogica cleanser and la roche posay moisturizer but am interested in ZO products… I have some questions though.
I have relatively dry sensitive skin and I get sunburned easily (thin epidermis, I suppose). I have not used obagi nuderm yet. I have some agespots and freckles on my cheeks and am noticing rough skin and little goosebumps on my forehead and little bumps on my cheek area.
I wanted to know if ZO products alone can help me out with these concerns…I look forward to having smooth radiant skin (without these unattractive bumps and even skin tone).
I value your input and would greatly appreciate if u could give me an honest advice. Thank you so much!
Semeen
Hello Sameen,
The degree of correction from the ZO Skin Health products you will receive with respect to your age spots, freckles, and sun damage is contingent on how severe this condition is. For severe forms of these conditions, obviously a medical grade program such as, the Obagi Nu-Derm system is more effective. However, ZO Skin Health products are the most potent and effective over-the-counter (OTC) products you can use to stimulate skin to product new and healthy skin cells.
I am sorry, but you didn’t provide your age, in order to have a better idea about the potential degree of damage. Based on what you described “goose bumps,” (broad) and “age spots” I would recommend that you have your skin evaluated by a Dermatologist or trained physician. It is always a good idea to have an annual evaluation on skin if there is the presence of sun damage. You can locate one through the doctor locator at obag.com or your health insurance. Just make sure everything checks at well. It’s impossible to provide an accurate diagnosis of what is being described as goose bumps and sun damage; Therefore, difficult to recommend a full system.
I can tell you that the Oclipse is an excellent start. This is a physical block that will protect you from harmful UVA and UVB damage. It contains natural melanin, a natural anti-oxidant that will provide you an additional barrier of protection from sun damage. Finally, it is many of my patient’s favorite products as it evens the skin tone very well. The tint blends into your own natural color tone. It feels great on skin and doesn’t leave behind the white film that other conventional physical blocks do. Make sure you reapply sunscreen to your skin (Oclipse or other brand) every 2-3 hours when out-doors.
The Daily Power Defense (DPD) and Ommerse Crème are two others you can use to begin the correction process and to prevent further damage to your skin. DPD is a potent antioxidant utilizing both active forms of Vitamin-C and also contains Retinol. It will stimulate the growth of healthy cells, protect against further damage, and improve the texture. The Ommerse, will provide you with hydration, reduction in inflammation, and not make skin dependent or lazy as other moisturizers can. It is a functional hydrating cream. I can’t recommend a full protocol until your skin has been properly diagnosed. Please write back then. Thanks.
Best,
Sandra Obagi, MBA
Medical Esthetician
I am 43 years old and have had excema all my life. As a child, it was on the neck and in the bends of the arms and legs. During my late teens and 20s covered most of my body and was always oozing and bleeding. My skin is much better, but I still have patches on the tops of my feet and the backs of my hands that I can’t seem to get any relief from unless I am taking steroids orally. What should I be doing to get this to clear up? the only medications that I am taking are diflorasone diacetate ointment 0.05% and atarax. thank you.
Hello Cheryl,
Eczema (aka contact dermatitis) is a true medical condition that cannot be treated with an online consultation. It is a chronic condition that can be managed with proper care. There are many dermatologists specializing in this specific condition. You may want to “Google” a good doctor in your area. What I can do, is provide you with some helpful tips that are well established in the “Derm” world for preventing a flare-up from occurring:
1) Never use hot water, use tepid water instead for showers, etc.
Avoid steam rooms, hot Jacuzzis, and saunas.
2) Avoid contact with household cleaners or chemicals. If you are
cleaning your house, wear gloves.
3) Avoid skincare products or lotions, body creams, etc., with
fragrances. Scented products usually require a form of alcohol to
evaporate the fragrance/scent that can contribute to dryness and
irritation.
4) Also hydrate skin after washing your hands or taking a shower. Look
for body lotions geared towards sensitive skin and that are unscented.
5) Anything that may “contact” your skin should be tailored for
sensitive skin. This includes washing your laundry with detergent
such as, ALL Clear (a favorite among Derms) as it is free of harsh
chemicals and scents and will gently clean your clothes, bed sheets,
etc.
I’ve been on the Nu derm line for 8 weeks now. i am very happy with the results and will be going on a maintenance program. what ZO products are recommended to complement the Nu derm maintence program?
i am 34 years old, live in the United Arab Emirates and had melasma.
thanks
Hello Salam,
Although you are happy with your skin at 8 weeks, you should not move to maintenance yet. With the first six weeks of Nu-Derm use, correction is superficial and limited to the epidermis (the top layer of skin). Results will not last, if program is stopped now.
It is at 8 weeks when skin begins the correction process at the cellular level. There is a marked increase in collagen cells and elastin fibers, with a simultaneous reduction in excess color cells. You should be on the program for 18 weeks total to obtain optimal long-lasting results. Your results right now are superficial. So stick to the program a few more weeks, even if you are happy with your skin.
In the mean time, you can already add ZO Skin Health products to your Obagi Nu-Derm system to enhance results and reduce any irritation from the program. You can continue using these same ZO products once you are on maintenance as well. On maintenance, you will use the Clear about 3 days a week, the Exfoderm 2-3 days a week, and the Tretinoin Cream & Blender step, another 2-3 days a week. The cleansers, sunscreen, eye cream, etc., are used daily.
I would start you with a DNA kit, Exfoliating Polish, and Ommerse Day Crème. The DNA kit is going to introduce you to the majority of the products that I want you to use during your maintenance.
For now, you will use the Growth Factor Serum, located in the DNA kit as your last step in the evening, after application of Tretinoin & Blender.
The Daily Power Defense (DPD) will be used after your TONER step, before applying the Clear (if you use Tepads, apply after the Tepads).
The Oclipse Sunscreen is interchangeable with the Nu-Derm sunscreen, and my preferred choice, especially for more olive skin tones. It will also give your skin the appearance of wearing an evenly applied foundation.
The Exfoliating Cleanser in the DNA kit is also interchangeable with your current cleanser and you can alternate use between the two. If you prefer the Exfoliating Cleanser, you can stick with this one after you reach maintenance. Remember, to always wash your face for ONE minute regardless of the cleanser used.
The Polish, is to be used 2-3 days a week, while you are in the shower. Wet skin and massage gently for ONE minute at least prior to washing your face. This will assist is stimulating the growth of healthy cells at a faster rate, removing dead skin, and in making the skin lighter and brighter.
The Ommerse Day Crème is an excellent functional moisturizer to use when you need some hydration. I would have you use this before the Sunscreen in the morning.
Once you have been on the program for 18 weeks and move to maintenance, continuing using the ZO products recommended daily. Add in the Nu-Derm creams in accordance with the instructions above. Do this, and you will have a life time of great skin! Best,
Sandra Obagi, MBA
Medical Esthetician
Hi Sandra,
Would you please tell me what it “Amp” is that I often see you refer to in your replies, I can not think what I am missing or not…
Thanks!
Anne
Hi, Anne:
Sandra is currently in Dallas doing a personal appearance, but this is one question that I can answer for her.
The “Amp” is a result of a computer glitch. When Sandra types the symbol for ampersand, the computer interprets it as “amp”.
Sorry for the confusion!
Donna
Hi,
I have a question about doing IPL or Fraxel during Obagi Nu-Derm and ZO. I am 4 weeks (will do 18) into Nu-Derm with some ZO products recommended by Sandra (DPD, GFS), and the med spa where I get facials has recommended doing a laser treatment to help things along. Any advice about when it would be best received by my skin? Thanks!
Hello Therese,
Thank you for your feedback. At the Obagi Institute, procedures are chosen in accordance with a patient’s individual needs for the most successful results.
The laser treatment best suited for your skin will depend on your skin type and condition. After 18-weeks of using the Obagi Nu-Derm® system and ZO Skin Health products, you may not even require any additional procedures such as, Fraxel®. These procedures are reserved for more aggressive or deeper situated conditions – scars, deeper pigmentation, loss of elasticity. If CORRECTLY performed by an experienced physician or medical practitioner, they may speed up the correction process and allow for enhanced results. Normally, at week 8 of Obagi Nu-Derm®, skin should be well prepared to have the procedure.
Best,
Sandra Obagi
Medical Esthetician
I’ve been an Obagi user for years, 3 yrs ago my Dr. switched me to the CRx products, which I love. However, the sunscreen flakes and cakes on my skin- never used to- in fact I loved it b/c it went on so creamy – more like a moisturizer than a sunscreen. What could be causing it all of a sudden? Could it be hormonal? I use make-up w/sunscreen (both foundation & bronzer) but I want to be able to use the Obagi for better protection! Any suggestions?
Hi Kara,
The sunscreens within the Obagi System(s) are interchangeable. Meaning if you were not “flaking” by using a sunscreen from the Obagi Nu-Derm system, and your MD switched you to the Obagi C-Rx system, you can still use the Obagi Nu-Derm sunscreen with your Obagi C-Rx system. The hydration in the Obagi C-Rx Sunguard can cause the flaking your are describing, and I have heard that from a few of my own patients. I usually have them switch and try the Healthy Skin Protection or the ZO Skin Health Oclipse to alleviate this problem. Don’t worry–it’s not hormonal.
Best,
Sandra Obagi, MBA
Medical Esthetician
I’ve used Obagi for about 5 yrs, I use the gel cleanser, 10% professional C-serum, exfoliated face cream, sunscreen & eye cream. I’m wondering why my aesthetician has kept me on the 10% rather than the 20% C-serum. I am 52 yrs old & have dry skin. Thank you.
Hello Becca,
The 10% serum is for sensitive and or dry skin types. That is the most likely reason your aesthetician kept you on it. If you feel you can handle the 20% serum, then discuss this concern with her. Please let me know if you have any more questions.
Best,
Sandra Obagi, MBA
Medical Esthetician
Hi Sandra,
I have just added RNR-Plus to my NuDerm Maintenance protocol without a problem. What Dr. Obagi recommended was 0.1% Tret/Blender 2x a week (I was using it 3x a week) and RNR-Plus 2x a week for the first two weeks. As I was already comfortable with the 3x 0.1%Tret and using Ommerse only as needed already, I decided to try RNR-Plus 3x and I am tolerating fine. No peeling yet and I am not relying the Ommerse either.
Oh yes, although I am a huge fan of GFS, I do not apply it on top of the RNR-Plus. Since you and I have not talked about this I just wanted to reassure you that I knew not to do that.
I do use the GFS on top of the 0.1%Tret and during the day, whenever I am not using the RNR-Plus. I apply it on my neck when I do use RNR-Plus.
My question is now that I have changed some of my NuDerm maintnance protocol around,ie: 0.1%tret/blender 2x instead of 3x which isn’t a bad thing. Aside from using Ommerse Hydrating Cleanser instead of the NuDerm Cleanser, I know I could muddle along on my on without mucking things up too badly but why mess with success????
FYI: I have used your “shock your skin” 2 week of NuDerm Protocol but I am not due to do that again until after birthday and understandably, I do not want to be molting and peeling across from the dinner table as my beloved husband kindly inquires “are you burning your face again….?”
Look forward to a revised protocol for me when you have the time and all my best to Donna and Sue!
Sincerely,
Anne
Hi Sandra and Donna,
In reference to my question of 06/08/10 regarding a updated Maintenance protocol incorporating RNR-Plus. I recognize that Dr.Obagi is on Holiday for a little while so as I stated, I am good to coast until you all regroup and things settle down for you.
When you do have it, email it because I like to print it to have handy to follow it. Thank you all very much, I have added the RNR-Plus 10 days now and no adverse reactions, peeling or additional need for Ommerse.
It’s not unusual that after one and a half years, starting with a 10%Glycolic Cleanser as part of the Vivite system and Tri Luma for three months, then 18 weeks of NuDerm,with 0.5% Tret and eventually 0.1% Tret/Blender. In addition, for a year I have also been using with much pleasure ZO Skin Health as part of my Maintenance protocol so it stands to reason that although I am most certainly going to benefit and I do love RNR-Plus. To use Sandra’s words “kick it up a notch”, I would say I could usae your expert advise with the “up the age barrier” protocol”.
Oh how I wish I lived near you so I could treat myself to something up close and serious. As things are not that way, we will adapt and be happy with what we have.
Hope my friend Sue is feeling better and over her cold. Give her my regards will you please. Thank you and I look forward to hearign for you when things settle down. You all do excellent work!
Regards,
Anne