ZO Skin Health
Under a Lot of Stress? It Shows!
Stress. There’s just no getting away from it. Women have more stress than men at least partially because they’re so hard on themselves and try so hard to please others. All that stress shows–in fact, it’s written all over your face!
Problem: Chronic stress triggers a hormone called cortisol, which reduces the ability of the skin to retain water. The result: a dull, dry complexion.
Solutions:
1. Although it seems counter-intuitive, reduce the amount or frequency of moisturizer. It causes your skin to stop collecting water from the food and water that you consume.
2. Avoid the use of hot water and highly fragranced skincare products.
3. Don’t use cleansers that strip your skin of its natural oils.
Problems: A furrowed brow, fine lines and wrinkles around the eyes. All of this may be caused by a decrease in the amount of collagen and elastin fibers, as well as increased dryness (which exacerbates the appearance of wrinkles)
Solutions:
1. Stimulate the production of collagen and elastic with active Vitamin A (ZO Skin Health’s Radical Night Repair Plus) or Rx Retin-A.
2. Drink more water.
Problem: Chronic stress causes or complicates other skin problems, including rosacea, acne, eczema and psoriasis. There’s a new term for this–psychodermatology–skin disorders that are related to your thoughts or feelings.
Solutions:
1. For acne–use products specifically for oily or acne-prone skin. Dr. Obagi’s favorite cleanser is ZO Skin Health’s Exfoliating Cleanser. Cleanse twice a day, but avoid the use of hot water. Slough off the surface skin cells that trap debris–try the ZO Skin Health Exfoliating Polish. Apply a product that has salicylic acid–like Dr. Obagi’s TE pads, which help to break down the sebum. Once a day is sufficient for maintenance; twice a day if you have active or persistent flare ups.
2. For rosacea, or if your skin appears red in the nose, cheeks, forehead–there are lots of OTC that claim to reduce redness, not as many that really work. Dr. Obagi is a fan of Growth Factor Serum to reduce redness. If a prescription is required, he frequently recommends baby-doses of Accutane.
For advanced medical conditions or persistent problems, see a dermatologist.
This is a stressful time. You can’t take care of all of the problems, but you can take care of yourself. Physicians are now saying that strict dieting is very stressful–so take it easy; don’t be too hard on yourself. Take a walk, put a slice of cucumber over your eyes and close your eyes for a few minutes, have a glass of wine, enjoy some me-time.
ZO Skin Health
One Minute, That’s All We Ask (twice a day!)
Anything that makes your life easier and your skin healthier gets four stars around here. That’s why we like the Clarisonic cleansing brushes. The best part: they’re programmed to operate for one full minute, which is the amount of time required to break down sebum, which Dr. Obagi calls “the enemy of healthy skin”.
A lot of ZO users like to use the Clarisonic with our Hydrating Cleanser. Used in combination, the two get 5 or 6 X as much dirt, cosmetics and oils off of your skin. For fighting acne, blackheads, whiteheads and large pores, that’s powerful.
The Clarisonic is pricey–about $150-$225. If you want to save some money–make it a habit to cleanse with your fingertips for one full minute–AM and PM. Rub your face vigorously–it stimulates the skin cells.
If sebum and dirt are the enemy of healthy skin, Clarisonic (or a self-timer) and our Hydrating Cleanser may very well be your best friends.
ZO Skin Health
Skincare Tips You Haven’t Already Heard
Certain skincare tips, like drinking plenty of water, are now common knowledge. But, every once in a while you come across a true treasure. The kind of rare tip you haven’t heard before but wish someone told you years ago. They usually come up when you least expect it, but we decided to go looking for them. We asked our Facebook fans and Twitter followers to share the best, rarely-heard-before skincare tips and they answered with some treasures. Take a look:
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Liz says DON’T drink with a straw. When you tighten your lips to suck from a straw, you’re using the same muscles it takes to smoke a cigarette. And, we all know what smokers’ lips, and the wrinkles around them, look like.
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Victoria recommends you DO use a hands-free headset for your cell phone. Think about it. If your cell phone is ridden with makeup and oils after a long call, guess what transferred to your face? Bacteria, acne’s faithful ally.
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Dawn advises you DO apply more sunscreen to the left side of your face and upper body. Not because she has something against your right side, but because she realizes we spend a good chunk of time in our cars. And where does the sun hit us when we’re behind the wheel? You guessed it, our left sides.
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Teresa suggests you DO cut your TE Pads in half. The faithful ZO Skin Health customer does this to make them last longer and thus gets more bang for her buck. You know what they say, “Where there’s a will, there’s a way.” Kudos to Teresa for coming up with this one.
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Xavier thinks women who DON’T own a magnifying mirror are doing their skin and themselves a favor. Looking at our pores that close-up can cause unnecessary obsession and, in many cases, lead to picking, prodding and popping. Put the magnifying mirror away. Your skin, and sanity, will thank you.
Dr. Zein Obagi
Go to the Gym to Work on Your Skin
People usually workout with a very specific goal in mind. To chisel their abs, drop 15 pounds by the reunion or just firm up for bikini season, which many of you are doing right now. But, when was the last time you heard someone say they were heading to the gym to clear up their acne or improve their wrinkles?
Most people don’t realize that working out benefits your skin just as much as your body.
As a board-certified dermatologist and the creator of ZO Skin Health, I formulate anti-aging products with potent ingredients that combat wrinkles and fine lines. But, the battle doesn’t stop there.
I tell my patients all the time that products and procedures do most of the work; the rest is up to them.
You’ve probably noticed that many anti-aging products claim to boost collagen, the stuff youthful skin has a lot of and aging skin doesn’t. But, guess what else boosts collagen? Yep, exercise.
A great cardio workout kicks your blood flow into motion. When that happens, your skin cells get a healthy delivery of oxygen and nutrients — the picture-perfect setting for natural collagen production. And how does that benefit your skin? You’ll see fewer dry patches, firm skin and less wrinkles.
Click here for the best collagen-boosting product on the market.
For those who are acne-prone, the reasons to workout are even more attractive. Regular exercise improves blood circulation, which makes it easier for your pores to get rid of the toxins in your body that can lead to blemishes.
On top of this, stress levels drop. It’s no coincidence that pimples show up when they’re least welcome: just before the Power Point presentation in front of the bosses at work; the night you flight out for your big vacation; the day of your wedding! You likely had a lot of headache-inducing planning prior to such events, which brought on a mountain of stress.
Exercise balances out the hormones that go into overdrive when stress revs up. It may not produce an immediate difference in skin, but you’ll definitely take note of the absent flare-ups during your next big event.
No time for the gym? Prevent acne from ever coming on with this kit.
It doesn’t stop here. Cellulite can improve, the elasticity in your face can bounce back and a nice rosy glow often results from regular workouts, too.
So, the next time someone asks what you’re trying to accomplish at the gym, tell them you’re toning and tightening — your skin.
ZO Skin Health
Large Pores… For Some, They’re an even Larger Problem
Large pores—how can something so small be such a big deal? Probably because enlarged pores make it difficult to have smooth, firm, tight, younger looking skin. Correcting large pores is not difficult, but you need to treat your skin right!
Here’s are a few “do’s”:
- Make sure that you use the right cleanser. Use one designed for oily skin—look for ingredients like salicylic, glycolic or lactic acid, and make sure that you use it for one full minute—it takes that long to break down sebum. Even if you think you have “normal” skin—and I personally don’t think that there is such a thing—I recommend a cleanser for oily skin–like ZO’s Exfoliating Cleanser. That’s the first part of the regimen—twice a day—morning and night.
- Exfoliate! Once a day is not too much. You need to get rid of the dead surface skin cells so that the younger, healthier, living ones can emerge. If you don’t exfoliate regularly, your skin will appear dull and dry. I like a good scrub—like ZO’s Exfoliating Polish. It has round magnesium crystals so won’t irritate the skin. And scrub diligently! What you really want to do is to stimulate your skin cells—keep them alive and active!
- Deep cleanse your pores with TE pads—they’re soaked in a combination of salicylic and glycolic acid to exfoliate the skin, thus speeding up skin renewal.
- Retinoids (like Retin-A) or high potency retinol products (like ZO’s Radical Night Repair Plus) may reduce pore size because they help decrease the activity of the oil glands. Active Vitamin A treatment doesn’t reduce pore size for everyone—but many people are successful with it.
- Try a quick fix at home. Egg white masks (combine two egg whites and a few drops of lemon juice) can have a quick, albeit temporary, fix.
- Microdermabrasion administered by a professional aesthetician will help exfoliate the skin and provide temporary improvement, but it’s not a permanent solution.
And a few “don’ts”:
1. Don’t get overzealous. Avoid the use of harsh astringents and toners–they can exacerbate the problem.
2. Use moisturizers advisedly. They compact dead cells and decrease cellular turnover. When your pores get clogged and skin isn’t allowed to exfoliate normally, you increase the probability that pores will be enlarged.
3. Don’t try to cover up the problem with foundation or powders. It won’t work and will only irritate the pores (as well as your dermatologist).
Work with the basics—a cleanser, chemical and physical exfoliant—daily. Those three things may be enough to treat large pores.
deborah
The Worst Cities for Healthy Skin
A recent TotalBeauty.com-conducted study sought out the worst cities in the United States — for your skin. Findings were based on several factors including smoking rates, climate and pollution, to name a few. (And you thought it all came down to genes and Botox.) Did your city make the list? Here’s hoping a move isn’t in order.
#13 Portland Maine: This city has a penchant for tanning beds, which explains why its skin cancer rates are so high. You know how dangerous the sun’s rays are, but did you know the UVA rays in a tanning bed are two to three times stronger? Hey, folks in Portland, Maine, meet the spray tan.
#12 Tacoma, Washington: This city, largely populated with blue collar workers and military servicemen and women, grabbed a spot on the list for its stress levels. When your life has tension, your body recognizes it and answers with stress hormones, like cortisol. Cortisol is a green light for oil production, which leads to blemishes. Put. The Blackberry. Down.
#11 Macon, Georgia: The state may be known for its peaches, but there’s nothing peachy keen for your skin with 88 percent average humidity. All that moisture in the air leads to more sebum in the sebaceous glands, which increases your chances of acne. ZO Skin Health’s creator, Zein Obagi MD, recommends cleansing skin one full minute to rid of sebum, but Macon residents might want to go longer.
Your city didn’t make the list? Don’t say “Phew!” just yet. We’ll share 9 more cities with you over the next week. Which city needs to substitute its nicotine addiction for an SPF addiction, making it #10 on the list? Find out right here!
deborah
There’s No Such Thing As Lucky Skin. Not Even Today.
On this St. Patrick’s Day — also known as the luckiest day of the year — we’d like to pose a question Clint Eastwood-style: When it comes to skincare, do you feel lucky? Huh, do ya?
Is your skin in such top-notch condition that you think about removing your makeup at night and then decide that you’re too tired–your skin will be just fine tomorrow? Well, we hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you’re not that lucky. Not even today.
True, you can get away with it — for a time. But if you skip the ritual of cleansing your face before bed every night, you’re basically rolling out the red carpet for blemishes.
“Even if you don’t have oily skin, if you don’t scrub makeup and dirt off your face then they clog up your pores–leading to blackheads, whiteheads and acne. Sebum is the enemy of healthy skin–and we all have it. You can get rid of the surface dirt quickly, but it takes time to break down the sebum. Twice a day, morning and night, you need to cleanse for at least one minute,” says Dr. Obagi.
Have a Happy St. Patrick’s Day. After the green beer and Irish kissing is said and done, don’t push your luck; spend one minute cleansing your face.
ZO Skin Health
Facials for Acne
Sometimes, despite your best intentions, at-home care for acne just isn’t enough. Sometimes you need the advice and treatments of an aesthetician or a dermatologist. A facial may be a good idea, but make sure that you’re getting the right kind of facial. Some acne facials can actually make it worse! Here’s what to look for–and what to look out for.
* A good acne facial requires four steps– cleansing, exfoliation, extractions, and sunscreen. The exfoliation can be mechanical ( a good scrub, like ZO’s Exfoliating Polish) or a device such as a crystal-free microdermabrasion. Particle-based microdermabrasion (like aluminum oxide) can inflame acne, nick the skin, spread bacteria and cause contamination.
* Crystal-free microdermabrasion is an effective treatment to rejuvenate skin, shrink pores, and most importantly, stimulate the regeneration of healthy skin cells (via the removal of dead skin cells). Here’s how it works: the dead or damaged top layer of the skin is gently exfoliated, while the dead skin cells are vacuumed away in a sterile, controlled environment. This procedures not only improves extractions, it makes the whole process much easier to tolerate, and less painful. The DiamondTome®, Hydra-Facial®, and DiamondPeel are a few of the devices that utilize a diamond tip wand and avoid particles.
* Steam is relaxing and makes extractions easier, but it’s horrible for your skin, especially if you have acne or rosacea. Because of the fact that steam enlarges the glands, it can actually cause acne.
* Either the Blue LED light or Red LED light can be very valuable. Blue wavelengths are very effective in killing the p-acnes bacteria, the major source of acne. You should see a noticeable reduction in acne lesions 2-3 days after treatment. The wavelength is critical to success. Devices that are purchased over-the-counter are not going to penetrate as deep as devices used by your aesthetician or dermatologist. Red lights reduce inflammation but should be used in conjunction with blue wavelengths.
* Tea-tree masks help tighten pores, reduce oiliness and can be a good addition to an acne facial.
Successful treatment for acne however, starts off at home. Be sure to use a cleanser designed for oily skin, cleanse for at least one minute, use an exfoliating polish, and an anti-bacterial topical. Occasional facials are not a good substitute for proper at-home daily care.
ZO Skin Health
Care for Acne and Oily Prone Skin
First, let me straighten out a misconception. Adult acne is no different from juvenile acne; and it should be treated the same way.
Acne may be attributed to genetics or hormonal imbalance. Contributing factors, or acne triggers, include lifestyle choices, such as diet, sleep pattern, hygiene, or stress. When skin does not exfoliate as it should, dead cells build up on the skin surface and inside the pore. Dead cells mix with trapped oil and pores become clogged, resulting in blackheads and whiteheads. Some forms of acne require medical supportive treatment, such as oral medication or procedures. Recommendations for acne skin care are based upon the severity of acne, presence of discoloration, age of patient, and probability of scarring with acne.
Here are a few rules and tips for acne-prone skin:Cleansing. Skin should be cleansed AM and PM with a suitable cleanser that removes sebum and thoroughly cleanses skin, without stripping the skin. Hot water should be avoided, as it dries the skin and increases oil gland activity. Skin should be washed for one full minute, as it takes this long to reduce surface sebum and remove dirt and debris. A toner or astrigent should follow washing AM and PM to restore the pH and reduce surface bacteria. I recommend the ZO Skin Health Exfoliating Cleanser for oily and acne-prone skin.
Unclog the pores. A build up of dead cells, oil and debris results in clogged pores. When oil and debris mix with bacteria inside the clogged pore, the pore can become inflamed and result in papules (small bumps) or cysts. It’s important to keep your pores open, allowing oil and dead cells to exit the pore naturally. Exfoliation is one way to keep the pores clean and skin smooth and can be achieved by use of a scrub, one time daily, AM or PM. To be effective, a scrub should not be too gentle, or too harsh. Harsh scrubs may result in microtears on the skin surface, allowing bacteria to enter, creating further problems. Magnesium crystals, such as those found in Exfoliating Polish by ZO Skin Health, are perfect for exfoliating the skin, as they are round, so they do not tear the skin, yet they do the job in clearing off dead skin cells and removing surface debris.
Oil-producing glands tend to be more prominent in the t-zone (around the nose, forehead and chin), so oily skin is more problematic there. ZO Skin Health TE pads are soaked in salicylic acid and glycolic acid to exfoliate the skin cells and reduce oiliness. It’s the combination of these two—a mechanical exfoliant and a chemical one—that work together to control oiliness and breakouts. Generally, having one without the other just isn’t enough for acne prone individuals.
Have a Facial. Tea tree oil is well known for it’s anti-fungal, anti-viral and anti-bacterial properties. Apply a tea tree mask once or twice a week to help control acne break-outs. Additionally, you can use this mask to spot treat pimples, leaving the mask on overnight. If you wish, ask a good and trusted aesthetician for an acne mask.
Manage your Diet. Rumor has it that chocolate causes acne, but there has never been any proof of that. There is general agreement, however, that fatty, oily foods, and diets high in refined sugar and carbohydrates can trigger acne flare-ups. Salty, iodized, or spicy foods can also be a problem for some people. Water is essential to good health and necessary to keep the skin hydrated and looking its best. Drinking plenty of water helps to flush out toxins from the body.
Be careful with Cosmetics. Beware of the term “oil-free”. Many manufacturers use synthetic oils, rather than natural oils (like animal, vegetable or mineral oil), because these oils technically can be called “oil-free”. But the synthetic oils can still cause or aggravate acne. Frequently acne caused by cosmetics will appear as whiteheads over the cheeks, forehead and chin. Mineral make-up is generally recommended, as it contains natural ingredients that do not cause irritation or harm the skin.
Moisturizers. Similar to cosmetics, some moisturizers will provoke acne and therefore are not recommended for acne-prone skin. Moisturizers result in a build-up of dead cells, decreased cellular exfoliation, and damage to the skin. Moisturizers are only recommended under certain circumstances and then only a functional moisturizer (one with active ingredients that stimulate cellular activity) is recommended, like Ommerse Daily Renewal or Ommerse Overnight Recovery, from ZO Skin Health.
De-stress. When you are stressed, stress hormones become imbalanced and a variety of health problems may occur. You may not be able to avoid stress, but you can manage it with exercise, meditation, and personal down-time.
If acne problems persist, it’s important to get medical treatment, because acne can cause scars. See a dermatologist for a recommendation, treatment and/or prescription.
ZO Skin Health
Asian Skin—Part Nature, Part Nurture
Asians have flawless skin. At least that’s what the rest of the world thinks. But let’s FACE THE FACTS. That impeccable skin doesn’t come naturally. For many, it takes dedication.
First, let’s look at the plus side—and the first one is a big, big plus—especially up until age 30. Asians are the envy of women around the world because they look younger than their actual age. Asian skin generally contains more melanin, so photo-aging is not a significant problem. They like a fair, even-tone complexion, so they avoid sun exposure, and their skin is less prone to the tell-tale signs of aging—like wrinkling and sagging.
But Asian skin also has its problems:
Sensitivity
Asian skin is susceptible to discoloration from UV rays, hormonal changes, hot water, saunas, and steam. Asian skin also reacts badly to the use of some skin care products, moisturizers, fragrances and acne—all of which can result in skin reactions, scarring and increased pigmentation. Try to avoid those products and/or conditions that cause problems, and begin sun protection at an early age. Look out for ingredients like ammonia and arnia and sodium lauryl sulfate, especially if they appear at or near the top of the ingredient list. If these ingredients are used in minute amounts (toward the bottom of the list), they may not be problematic.
Pigmentation
Because Asian skin produces more melanin, it has a built-in SPF that helps reduce sun- burns, but this melanin also causes more discoloration. Even though the skin may appear to be light, the melanin may reside in the deeper layers of the skin. This excess melanin can induce pigmentation problems—including sun spots, dark patches, and deep discoloration that is resistant to treatment. Dark spots on the cheeks usually begin to appear in the 30’s and 40’s, although they can also appear earlier. Unfortunately, traditional ways of treating these pigmentation problems (IPL, photorejuvenation, light chemical peels and microdermabrasion) frequently are not effective, and may, in fact, cause the pigmentation to worsen.
Apply broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen with at least SPF 30 every day, rain or shine, and whether you’re indoors or out (UVA rays penetrate windows). Not only will you reduce the risk of skin cancer, you will also help reduce the incidence of pigmentation problems.
Oiliness/Acne
Asian skin tends to have unstable sebaceous glands. Sometimes that excess sebum production leads to discoloration and scarring. Proper care and oil-free moisturizers will help. Avoid products made with mineral oil—it’s the oil most commonly found in skincare products. It’s also important to avoid the use of cleansers that contain alcohol, as that may cause skin to produce even more oil. And don’t make the mistake of using overly harsh cleansers (look out for ingredients like sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate ) as these detergents can be very damaging.
The best way to treat all of these problems—sensitivity, pigmentation and acne—is by stimulating the skin to rejuvenate itself and expedite cellular renewal. All of my product lines are based on this philosophy. Sometimes, in more advanced cases, problem skin will require medical treatment and downtime.
Dr. Obagi is a pioneer in the treatment of Asian skin and has lectured and traveled extensively throughout Asia, training dermatologists and plastic surgeons. He owns and operates a practice in San Gabriel, CA (626.288.5115) with a staff fluent in Mandarin and Cantonese. His main office is in Beverly Hills, CA.
Zein Obagi, MD
亚洲皮肤的性质
亚洲人喜欢拥有完美的皮肤. 他们的白皙皮肤及均匀肤色令到其他国籍羨慕. 但是, 这种
無懈可擊的皮肤不是天生的. 当然很多人是采取多种方法令皮肤变得漂亮..
首先, 亚洲人的皮肤另到其它種族羡慕的主要原因是他们看起来比真实年龄年轻. 一般
来说, 亚洲人的皮肤比正常含有的黑色素高, 所以她们老化得不明显. 正因为他们喜欢平
均肤色, 所以经常避免暴曬太阳底下, 因此她们的皮肤不容易出现老化的徵象.
可惜, 就算更完美无缺的皮肤都有问题.
皮肤过敏
亞洲人的皮膚特別容易出現膚色不均勻的狀況, 主要原因是受到太陽的紫外線侵害, 荷
爾蒙失調, 熱水,桑拿浴 的影響. 如果使用不合適的皮膚保養品或香水 (香 水 有 香 料
及 色 素 成 份), 皮膚會产生反應, 例如会形成暗瘡, 瘡疤, 提升色素斑塊. 请在年轻时
候使用防曬用品. 请留意以下的一些成分, Ammonia, Arnia, Sodium Lauryl, Sulfate, 如
果这些成分出现最前排的成分表上, 都较为安全使用.
色素斑
正因为亚洲人的皮肤繁殖较多的黑色素, 皮肤本身建立的SPF 可以减少曬傷皮膚, 但亦
因为这种黑色素增加皮肤的色素斑. 虽然皮肤显得白皙, 黑色素沉淀于皮肤的里层. 这
些多余的黑色素可以导致皮肤颜色不均匀的主要原因, 包括雀斑, 黑块 等等.. 黑斑出现
在臉頰的两旁通常30 或 40 岁左右, 甚至些斑有可能会在早期呈现. 甚至有些醫生還會
用一些舊的方案解決嚴重的色素皮膚問題. 可惜這是一個治標不治本的方法, 看到的只
是皮膚表面得到改善. 有些皮膚醫生會使用 IPL, 脫皮術, 水晶磨皮術作為初步治療, 可
能導致皮膚有反效果.
每天使用Broad-Spectrum UVA/UVB防曬油, 防曬度至少SPF30, 无论下雨, 晴天, 室外,
不但可以减少皮肤癌的机会, 同时能够减低皮肤出现色素斑.
油性/粉刺
亚洲人的皮肤油脂分泌过多. 有时侯这些多余的油脂会另肤色变得不均匀. 要使用适当
自己的护肤品. 防止含有一些产品含有天然油脂. 最重要的是洗脸清潔劑,前往不可含有
酒精成份, 反而另皮肤分泌更多的油脂. 较为小心注意清潔劑組成部分. 请注意一些有
害性的成分. (例如, Sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium lareth sulfate)
最好的方法去治疗敏感, 色素斑, 暗瘡是促進皮肤细胞, 使皮肤变得美丽健康. 有时候, 比
价多问题的皮肤情况需要药物的治疗及过度期.
所有的皮膚色斑都可以成功地治療, 如果有一個平衡導線治療色斑, 皮膚會顯得更有光
澤, 健康, 年輕, 透徹, 就象初生的嬰兒一樣嫰滑. 想得到更多的諮詢電話是 626-288-
5115. (拥有流利广东话及国语) Obagi 醫生的偉大傑作另您的皮膚再次變得健康. 他
的主店位於Beverly Hills, California.
