When it comes to anti-aging skincare claims, who can you trust?  Good question, and the FDA wants you to know.  So they have published a list of companies that are making false and misleading claims.   In our opinion, it’s long overdue.  While the industry was not regulated, companies began making more and more unproven claims and publishing misleading photos.

And the companies that they’re naming–well, it’s a who’s-who list of skincare–Helena Rubinstein, Guerlain, L’Oreal, Lancome, Coty, Lancaster, Avon, Chanel, Estee Lauder, Elizabeth Arden, Shiseido–the list goes on and on!

Dr. Obagi is in favor of increased regulation–he has always been a great proponent of ensuring that skincare claims are fair and honest.

For more information, check out the following link:

http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/cms_ia/importalert_188.html

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I want you to forget everything you’ve been taught about moisturizing your skin. From the lady behind the cosmetic counter to the dermatologist on your TV — forget what you’ve been told. It’s high time you know the truth about hydrating your skin and I’m going to give it to you.

First, you need to consider where your information has come from. Think about your skincare sources and the key piece of advice they’ve drilled into your head: moisturize, moisturize, moisturize. How many of these people were trying to sell you moisturizer?

It’s not rocket science, friends. They tell you what they have to in order to get the sell. And, you like what you hear — that your skin will look younger — so you oblige.

I’m not trying to sell you anything. I have a bevy of skincare products, yes, but I won’t mention one of them in this writing. I just want you to know the truth. Even if it means purchasing less moisturizer. And, that’s what it will mean because your skin doesn’t need it. That’s right, your skin — get this — hydrates itself.

When the skin cells are strong and healthy, a natural delivery system of hydration takes place. But when the cells recognize an outside source has already hydrated the skin, there’s no need for the natural hydration to take place. They consequently become inactive and stop the moisture production process. That leads to dry, dull, aging skin.

Ever noticed the more moisturizer you apply, the more your skin seems to need it? It dries out, right? That’s because your skin is becoming addicted to the outside source of hydration: the moisturizer you’ve been piling on.

Look, I’m not recommending you swear off moisturizers. I realize tightness and dryness call for it sometimes. But, you need a functional moisturizer to keep your cells active and healthy. Look for moisturizers that contain Retinol so skin is hydrated, but cells are simultaneously stimulated. The higher the concentration of Retinol, the better. Otherwise, you’re creating more problems for your skin, including accelerating the signs of aging.

So, there you have it: The truth about moisturizing. Not quite the same information you’ve been given over the years, I know. But, remember, I’m not selling you anything. I’m giving you something: knowledge. And, knowledge is power.

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“Keep your eye on the ball.” It’s such a simple concept, but the words are repeated from the little leagues all the way up to major league baseball. Why? Because focus is crucial, not just with sports, but with any industry in which excellence is sought. So, why trust a skincare company that’s got its eye on five other balls, from fragrances all the way to fashion? Dr. Zein Obagi’s focus is your skin. Always has been, always will be.

You won’t ever find yourself browsing the cosmetic counters and coming across a hot new mascara with the ZO Skin Health logo on it. Nor will you stumble across our new shampoo and conditioner at your corner salon. We respect the two fields, but prefer to play the game for which we’re known. The game Dr. Obagi transformed.

If a skincare company has real integrity we’d think they would want to do the same. That’s why we’re left scratching our heads when we see supposed reputable skincare brands manufacturing makeup brushes, eau de parfums and nail polish.

What’s even more insulting are those who trespass into our territory from a department that doesn’t share a single common denominator with skincare. We can’t count how many fashion designers have woken up one morning and decided to stamp their name on a collection of skincare products. The most comical to date, however, would have to be the luxury jewelry brand that recently put out everything from eye cream to cleansers. We’re still trying to figure out the four C’s of skincare.

If you’d rather not deal with brands that are distracted by potential profits in other industries than you’ve come to the right place. We always have our eye on the ball: your skin.

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If you had heard the words “anti-aging” five years ago you probably would’ve thought of protesters outside a retirement home before you thought of the beauty industry. Today, however, it’s a household term. Personal care and cosmetic brands are hailing the anti-aging bandwagon and will do anything to jump aboard. But, how many of them deserve a ride?

We recently came across an anti-aging fragrance — yes, fragrance — that claims to make you SMELL youthful. Like us, you’re probably wondering what youth smells like. Well, pink grapefruit, mango, pomegranate and musk, of course. The same ingredients half the fragrances on the cosmetic counters contain.

There isn’t a personal care or cosmetic item too far-fetched for the anti-aging stamp. Nail polish has thrown its hat into the ring. Mascara wasn’t far behind. We’re waiting for deodorant, lipstick and mouthwash to get in on the game.

Those are just flat-out ridiculous examples, but other products trying to encroach into the niche we’ve mastered make a more convincing case. For instance, toothpaste. We all know teeth lose their strength and whiteness as we get older. Hair care products also have some legitimacy. Your mane slowly becomes a mop over the years. But, guess what? People who have the misfortune of aging teeth and aging hair have the good fortune of veneers and Raquel Welch wigs.

Let’s face it: Skin is the hands-down most telltale sign of aging on your body. Unlike your hair and teeth, you can’t put on a new face. Not even with the best plastic surgeon money can buy. That’s why skincare lines with ingredients recognized by the FDA to fight signs of aging are legitimately entitled to the anti-aging label.

Dr. Zein Obagi and ZO Skin Health can help you fight aging, but we can’t help you sort through all the anti-aging claims. Exercise wise consumerism. Your skin will thank you for it.

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Exactly how stupid do some companies think consumers are?

Just as I finished writing this blog on how we, as a company, were committed to holding our prices, offering better value, and making products that deliver what they promise, I came across the opposite — a company that is now marketing an emery board made with ground diamonds and stainless steel. Because we all need one of those, right?

Maybe I’m the one missing something here. Maybe a trying economy, record-high layoffs and countless home foreclosures instilled — not a sense of value — but a sense of frivolous spending in consumers. Maybe rather than spend each and every hard-earned dollar carefully, shoppers want nothing more than to introduce their paychecks to the nearest toilet.

Something tells me it’s not the consumer who hasn’t learned their lesson, though. I have a sneaking suspicion it has more to do with ignorant companies who see the first signs of a recovering economy and interpret it as the green light to act like the past two years didn’t take place at all.

What’s wrong with the personal care industry that they appeal to obsessive shoppers with meaningless and overpriced products? If irresponsible spending were a drug, these companies would be the dealers. They make money off people’s careless habits.

We like to blame Wall Street for taking advantage of our savings and investments, but the consumer products industry should also share in the blame.

Let’s do what is right. Let’s develop and market smart products for smart people.

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Today, every page in the Money section of USA Today was encouraging —retail spending is up; older adults are spending more on travel and younger ones are spending more on apparel; auto sales are up; housing prices have stabilized; people feel secure in their jobs; the economy is rebounding in California and Florida.

All together now: “Phew!”

But, can manufacturers assume that consumers will abandon their thrifty habits? Can skincare companies now sneak in a price increase or 12? Can consumers view this progress as the green light for indulgent spending?

I can’t speak for the skincare industry as a whole. I can only speak for ZO.

We have NO intention of increasing prices in 2010. We believe some important lessons were taught in the recession, namely:

1. “Value” is important. No one — no matter how affluent — should engage in profligate spending.

2. Whether a product costs $39 or $139, that product should deliver results in direct proportion to its cost. Consumers deserve to get what they pay for.

3. Manufacturers need to invest in what matters most.  At ZO, we believe that is “results.”  Beautiful packaging is not important. In fact, you may notice that we’ve made some cutbacks in some of our packaging, so that we can avoid price increases.

4. No manufacturer should take a customer for granted. We value our customers and partners, and will work to deserve and maintain the trust that has been established.

The recession reminded us all of the importance of quality, value and self-discipline. So we mutually have something to be thankful for. We’re thankful for you and you’re thankful for your skin. The way it should be.

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Whoever is coming up with these things doesn’t understand that even though women use technology, we generally don’t understand it–nor do we want to. Speaking for myself (and trying to avoid gender profiling here!)  I have zero inclination to try to figure it out.

So what does this have to do with skincare?  Well, what the computer industry calls “tech-speak” evolves to what the skincare industry calls “beauty-speak”–a bunch of pseudo-scientific and pedantic language that is instead thoroughly confusing! Some of it is pure double-speak.

Let’s face it, the anti-aging skincare industry overcomplicates things.  There are way too many options, and way too  many ingredients.  Even well-informed consumers have a hard time figuring it out.  Part of it, I’m sure, is the companies keep adding marketing bells-and-whistles, to differentiate their products and try to impress consumers.

Dr. Zein Obagi isn’t like that.  He doesn’t understand marketing and is the first to admit it. He thinks like a dermatologist, and wants to use that which works.  So that’s why ZO Skin Health is focused on the tried-and-true–like retinol.  With Dr. Obagi, there is much more “steak” than “sizzle”.  In case you haven’t already guessed, he is a very direct, straightforward, results-oriented guy. With Dr. Obagi, there is no hidden agenda.

So why do skincare lines have so many options?    Some of the old-guard companies–that developed their lines 15 or 20 years ago–are challenged to keep their products new and relevant.  Retailers demand “newness”.  So the companies keep developing more stuff–even though “new” is not necessarily better.  And after a few years, they have product lines with 50 or 75 different products–and who can figure them all out?

Skincare is Dr. Obagi’s priority, but it’s probably not yours.  I hope that the marketing materials that ZO has developed, and the products that Dr. Obagi has formulated, are simple to understand, select, and use.  Because I wouldn’t blame you if you hit the “escape” button, or “Command W” if we’re boring you with technical gobblety gook.  Let’s talk to each other in plain English.  Everything works better that way.

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Everyone loves a good set of before and after photos. It represents so much more than results. It means that if she can do it, so can you.  It’s that small voice telling you your goal is within reach. It’s motivation and inspiration rolled into one.

Marketing teams realize this, which explains why you’re seeing more and more of these side-by-side photos in advertisements and on packaging for everything from cellulite products, weight loss systems and hair care items.

But are they all legitimate? That’s a question you can answer yourself — if you know what to look for.

I recently came across before and after photos for a peel that showed remarkable improvement. Upon closer examination, though, I could see they used a trick. In the “before” picture the subject was smiling. In the “after” picture, no smile.

Call me crazy, but, wouldn’t she have more to smile about after getting the results she wanted? They had her smile before because a nice grin will exacerbate crows feet and wrinkles faster than a magnifying mirror.

Clinical before and after photos should be taken with a digital ultra-high resolution camera that provides credible photo documentation. Respectable clinicians and aestheticians know this and refuse to use trickery. To see whether a real difference was made, all makeup has to be removed. Even lipstick. That’s rule number one. And, hair should be pulled back with a headband so that it’s not a distraction. You want the focus to be the results, not some other measure of vanity.

Sometimes the manipulation is a little more subtle, like lighting. Some before photos are taken under harsh, fluorescent lights and then the after picture switches to more flattering, incandescent lighting that any demanding diva in Hollywood could approve of.

Coincidence? We think not. And neither should you. Deceptive marketing tactics mean nothing if you know enough to know better.  And remember, smart consumerism only gets you closer to a fabulous “after” shot of your own.

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I often wonder if women’s skin is anywhere as clean as their brains. I only wonder because I know so many cosmetic companies are in the business of brainwashing.

As a dermatologist who never lost his passion for skin, I see the brainwashing effects on a daily basis. Seven out of 10 women who visit my clinic are only too happy to declare their “skin type” when they see me. My children patients never utter those words during their appointments and the only type my male patients have are of the blonde or brunette persuasion.

It’s time women stopped making themselves such an easy target. Deceitful skincare companies go after you harder than your children or male counterparts because you’re the ones willing to take the bait time and time again. Why? Because you’re desperate.

I don’t blame you, either. You’re desperate because you want — and deserve — to look your best, but short of going under the knife, can’t find the solution. You’re desperate because you spend your hard-earned money on product after product only to get broken promise after broken promise. You’re desperate because the cosmetic industry made you that way and wants to keep you that way.

The time has come to finally take the targets off your backs, ladies. Take the time to educate yourselves on what works and what doesn’t work in the fight against aging. Read the fine print in the advertisements. Ask yourself if the claims these companies are making have any scientific merit.  Decide if you’re putting your money into pretty packaging or high-grade ingredients.

I couldn’t think of a better day than April Fool’s Day to ask women to stop playing the fool and, in effect, finally make a fool of deceptive cosmetic companies.

WHO’S WITH ME?

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We realize high-quality skincare comes at a price, but some of the stuff now on the market is patently ridiculous. Here are just a few examples of items currently being marketed.

• A Swarovski crystal-studded cream pot: You have to wonder how many pageant dresses were harmed in the making of it and what function it serves the application process or your skin directly.

• Creams that come with little spoons or spatulas: Does the miniature utensil help you better apply the cream or better eat up the tomfoolery?

• A liquid serum bottle made of actual gold: Why do we suspect you’d have better luck taking it to the pawn shop than you would putting its contents on your face?

So is all impressive packaging a giant rip-off? No. Sometimes it’s not a luxury at all; sometimes it’s a necessity.

Case in point, some of the new pumps and jars. There might be a bit of a wow factor to them, but most of these airless pumps and jars were designed strictly with function in mind. According to Dr. Obagi,  “pop up pumps promote cleanliness (keeping fingers out of the jar means that bacteria can’t be introduced) and keep the key ingredients  safe from degrading.” Retinol, retinoic acid, Vitamin C and many natural/organic products spoil quickly when exposed to air or UV rays.

And there’s another big plus.  Measured doses (like with Ommerse Cremes, Radical Night Repair Plus, Growth Factor Serum and Oclipse sunscreen) help ensure you’re not using an excessive amount of product, which can backfire on you. (Yes, too much of a good thing really does exist.)

The next time you buy a skincare product, ask yourself if the bells and whistles serve a function or a distraction.

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