Botox: Know When to Say When
Have you ever met a Botox junkie? Someone who doesn’t know when to say when? I like to refer to the syndrome as Frozen Face. No matter what emotion they’re feeling, you’d have no idea judging from the frozen look on their face.
I refuse to let patients leave my office looking like this. Why? Because I’m responsible for making them look their best and that’s far from the best anyone can look.
Like any cosmetic injectable, Botox should be handled with the utmost care. That starts with the person administering the injection. Are they licensed to handle these types of cosmetic procedures? Or have they simply watched enough injections to think they know what they’re doing? Botox was designed to paralyze the muscles that cause fine lines and deeper wrinkles. Think about that for a moment. It might take minutes to perform, but it’s a serious procedure.
You probably wouldn’t let the receptionist at your hair salon take shears to your hair; don’t let anyone but a licensed professional put a needle to your skin.
If you think the mishaps start and stop with Frozen Face, you’re mistaken. A more serious complication is blepharoptosis, more commonly referred to as Droopy Eyelid. Sure, they’ve develops drugs to treat it, but why risk an embarrassing side effect that can last up to six months?
Which leads me to the duration your Botox should last. Many physicians will try to tell you the clock-rewinding effects will only last three months. They’re not injecting enough, plain and simple. But there’s a fine line between enough and too much. This is why I don’t recommend budget-shopping your Botox. It’s not TJ Maxx. You can’t take back Frozen Face or Droopy Eyelid when you discover you’ve received poor quality.
For the sake of your face’s reputation: Please heed my advice and pass it along to those you care about. Let’s put an end to Botox junkies.
Facelifts, Optional.
I went to a party in Tinsel Town this week, and while there was some small-talk about Tiger’s troubles or the California gubernatorial, I spent most of my time talking about— you guessed it — skin. That’s OK, it’s my favorite thing to talk about.
But there’s something that I didn’t like: The number of women who told me that they needed plastic surgery — a facelift or necklift — or lasers. Who told them that? Their friends? Their husbands? Their doctors? No, none of the above. More often than not, the women had convinced themselves.
I’ve got nothing against plastic surgeons. In fact, one works in my practice. There are some wonderful plastic surgeons out there. And lasers? I almost have more than I can count. Admittedly, I like gadgets, high-tech equipment and the latest technology.
I tried to convince these women that the right skincare products can thicken and strengthen their skin — maybe a chemical peel (like the Obagi Blue Peel) would be a good idea. I tried to convince them that they looked great and that invasive surgery wasn’t the right option at this time. Mild skin laxity can be reversed non-surgically. Face lifts are necessary only when muscle and skin laxity is pronounced. The land of the rich and famous has some petty, ego-driven and competitive people and unfortunately this influence has spoiled some otherwise wonderful people.
Is it their skin these folks don’t believe in or is it their dermatologist? Because I can turn both around in no time.
It shouldn’t be about keeping up with the Joneses. Especially not when the Joneses are getting gratuitous plastic surgery. It’s time we start a new trend. One that accomplishes healthy, youthful skin without the aid of a scalpel. Your skin can do it.
Look Who Invited Us Over
They say you’re only as good as the company you keep, which is why our latest announcement speaks volumes. Ready? Here it is: The latest spa to carry the ZO Skin Health line is the Spa at Four Seasons Westlake near Malibu, California. This is one drop-dead gorgeous place.
Dr. Zein Obagi spent last Thursday there for an event celebrating the newly renovated and upgraded spa menu, which now features two ZO facials! While guests were hob-nobbing with celebs like Brooke Burke and Antonio Sabato Jr., Dr. Obagi was busy greeting guests and talking with some of aestheticians who work at the spa.
If you live in the L.A. area or plan to visit, the ZO Skin Health line is sold at the Spa at Four Seasons Westlake Boutique and the spa’s two facial treatments include the Ossential Stimulator Peel ($145 for 20 minutes) and the Growth Factor Collagen Therapy ($225 for 50 minutes). Dr. Obagi is particularly proud of the Stimulator Peel — it produces remarkable results — due to a combination of ultra-high concentrations of three different acids. The other facial steps up the antiaging factor with powerful peptides, retinol and amino acids to stimulate those skin cells and rev up your skin’s production of elasticity and collagen. Both provide a pampering experience while you’re at the spa, but let you take home results as an added benefit.
It goes without saying that the Four Seasons brand defines the epitome of quality and the Westlake property is no exception. With onyx-studded treatment rooms that each lead out to private gardens and tranquility lounges full of blooming orchids, it’s a truly tranquil place to let go of everything — and beautify your skin in the process.
For more photos from the event and to find out about all ZO Skin Health’s updates and deals, become a fan of our Facebook page right here.
Read Our Lips!
When was the last time you celebrated something on your body plumping up? It’s probably been a while, but at my Obagi Skin Health Institute, we have something that you might like — it’s your lips.
As we get older, all of the things that we don’t want to be thin — like our fingernails, our lips, our eyelashes, and our hair — get thinner. Somehow that’s not fair, but it’s the result of aging and environmental conditions and hormonal issues. As we age, our bodies slow down the process of regenerating cells, so our lips, which are already thin, get even thinner. Smoking, wind and cold weather can also dehydrate our skin so lips look less plumped. In order to slow this process, there’s not much you can do, but be sure to wear a lip product with an SPF. If that’s not enough, a dermal filler (like Juvederm, Restylane, Sculptra, etc.) is an option.
Several months ago I was featured on Style Network’s “What I Hate About Me” show where people have lifestyle make-overs. In this particular case, the woman, who was newly divorced, was taught how to safely and properly use an internet dating service, walk in high heels, have a carefree hairstyle, and of course, she wanted to look a few years younger, so the producers brought her to me for lip plumping.
I used dermal filler Prevelle to give her lips extra fullness. Prevelle uses lidocaine, which reduces discomfort during procedures. And for the patients with no patience, results are immediate.
If restoring the youthful look of your lips appeals to you, but the idea of a needle — lidocaine or not — is not your style, you’ll want to consider something that’s now available from my office, Vivité Defining Lip Plumper. The name says it all.
No, it’s not at all similar to the lip gloss the girl at your beauty store sold you that did NOTHING. This actually works. Two people in my office, Dianne and Melissa, used Vivité for a week when they noticed their lips had gone off their hunger strike and started filling out.
Isn’t it time you were happy something was plumping up?
Tattoos (and Tattoo Removal)
One of the leading online news-magazines (www.msnbc.com, to be exact), had a story yesterday about Hollywood celebrities who have tattoos. What’s especially interesting though, is that that story got more hits than any other story on the homepage—generating more visitors than stories about Iran nuclear weapons, Haitian refuges, and gubernatorial primaries. I guess we all need a break from reality now and then.
So why do people like Penelope Cruz (she has the number 883 tattooed on her leg), Angelina Jolie (she had her Billy Bob tattoo lasered off, and later replaced with a map of the birthplaces of her adopted children) and Pink (too many tattoos to enumerate!) get tattoos?
I live and work in Beverly Hills, but I have no idea.
Some people have tattoos for cosmetic reasons (aka permanent cosmetics), for eyebrows, eyeliner, lips, lipliners. Also, some women have tattoos as part of post-surgical breast reconstruction.
Then again, there are Elvis tattoos, dragons, butterflies, leopards and lizards. For all of those crazy varmints and witchcraft tattoos, 50% of the people who get them later regret it. Luckily, there are several ways of removing them, and which technique a dermatologist uses will depend on the size, position and age of the tattoo.
In my practice I use a QS laser, which breaks up the pigmentation. The body’s scavenger cells then remove the pigmentation, over a period of about 30 days. The lasers cause bleeding, oozing and then crusting, so healing takes about 7 days. Generally, multiple treatments are required—but there’s no way of telling in advance.
After treatments are completed, there will be no residual pigmentation, but a flesh-toned outline of the tattoo will remain. Just a little tint—like in ZO Skin Health’s Oclipse sunscreen—will help even the tone and conceal the outline.
Whereas tattoo parlors are sometimes suspect and of questionable quality, it’s important to work with skilled and trained medical specialists for tattoo removal. Before you get a tattoo, just think about Halle Berry. She had the name of her first husband, David Justice, tattooed on her derriere. After she divorced, she had his name lasered off, and a sunflower tattooed in its place. As she said, “I wish I never had the tattoo in the first place. Clean, clear skin is always better.”
Good point, Halle.
Facials for Acne
Sometimes, despite your best intentions, at-home care for acne just isn’t enough. Sometimes you need the advice and treatments of an aesthetician or a dermatologist. A facial may be a good idea, but make sure that you’re getting the right kind of facial. Some acne facials can actually make it worse! Here’s what to look for–and what to look out for.
* A good acne facial requires four steps– cleansing, exfoliation, extractions, and sunscreen. The exfoliation can be mechanical ( a good scrub, like ZO’s Exfoliating Polish) or a device such as a crystal-free microdermabrasion. Particle-based microdermabrasion (like aluminum oxide) can inflame acne, nick the skin, spread bacteria and cause contamination.
* Crystal-free microdermabrasion is an effective treatment to rejuvenate skin, shrink pores, and most importantly, stimulate the regeneration of healthy skin cells (via the removal of dead skin cells). Here’s how it works: the dead or damaged top layer of the skin is gently exfoliated, while the dead skin cells are vacuumed away in a sterile, controlled environment. This procedures not only improves extractions, it makes the whole process much easier to tolerate, and less painful. The DiamondTome®, Hydra-Facial®, and DiamondPeel are a few of the devices that utilize a diamond tip wand and avoid particles.
* Steam is relaxing and makes extractions easier, but it’s horrible for your skin, especially if you have acne or rosacea. Because of the fact that steam enlarges the glands, it can actually cause acne.
* Either the Blue LED light or Red LED light can be very valuable. Blue wavelengths are very effective in killing the p-acnes bacteria, the major source of acne. You should see a noticeable reduction in acne lesions 2-3 days after treatment. The wavelength is critical to success. Devices that are purchased over-the-counter are not going to penetrate as deep as devices used by your aesthetician or dermatologist. Red lights reduce inflammation but should be used in conjunction with blue wavelengths.
* Tea-tree masks help tighten pores, reduce oiliness and can be a good addition to an acne facial.
Successful treatment for acne however, starts off at home. Be sure to use a cleanser designed for oily skin, cleanse for at least one minute, use an exfoliating polish, and an anti-bacterial topical. Occasional facials are not a good substitute for proper at-home daily care.
Care for Acne and Oily Prone Skin
First, let me straighten out a misconception. Adult acne is no different from juvenile acne; and it should be treated the same way.
Acne may be attributed to genetics or hormonal imbalance. Contributing factors, or acne triggers, include lifestyle choices, such as diet, sleep pattern, hygiene, or stress. When skin does not exfoliate as it should, dead cells build up on the skin surface and inside the pore. Dead cells mix with trapped oil and pores become clogged, resulting in blackheads and whiteheads. Some forms of acne require medical supportive treatment, such as oral medication or procedures. Recommendations for acne skin care are based upon the severity of acne, presence of discoloration, age of patient, and probability of scarring with acne.
Here are a few rules and tips for acne-prone skin:Cleansing. Skin should be cleansed AM and PM with a suitable cleanser that removes sebum and thoroughly cleanses skin, without stripping the skin. Hot water should be avoided, as it dries the skin and increases oil gland activity. Skin should be washed for one full minute, as it takes this long to reduce surface sebum and remove dirt and debris. A toner or astrigent should follow washing AM and PM to restore the pH and reduce surface bacteria. I recommend the ZO Skin Health Exfoliating Cleanser for oily and acne-prone skin.
Unclog the pores. A build up of dead cells, oil and debris results in clogged pores. When oil and debris mix with bacteria inside the clogged pore, the pore can become inflamed and result in papules (small bumps) or cysts. It’s important to keep your pores open, allowing oil and dead cells to exit the pore naturally. Exfoliation is one way to keep the pores clean and skin smooth and can be achieved by use of a scrub, one time daily, AM or PM. To be effective, a scrub should not be too gentle, or too harsh. Harsh scrubs may result in microtears on the skin surface, allowing bacteria to enter, creating further problems. Magnesium crystals, such as those found in Exfoliating Polish by ZO Skin Health, are perfect for exfoliating the skin, as they are round, so they do not tear the skin, yet they do the job in clearing off dead skin cells and removing surface debris.
Oil-producing glands tend to be more prominent in the t-zone (around the nose, forehead and chin), so oily skin is more problematic there. ZO Skin Health TE pads are soaked in salicylic acid and glycolic acid to exfoliate the skin cells and reduce oiliness. It’s the combination of these two—a mechanical exfoliant and a chemical one—that work together to control oiliness and breakouts. Generally, having one without the other just isn’t enough for acne prone individuals.
Have a Facial. Tea tree oil is well known for it’s anti-fungal, anti-viral and anti-bacterial properties. Apply a tea tree mask once or twice a week to help control acne break-outs. Additionally, you can use this mask to spot treat pimples, leaving the mask on overnight. If you wish, ask a good and trusted aesthetician for an acne mask.
Manage your Diet. Rumor has it that chocolate causes acne, but there has never been any proof of that. There is general agreement, however, that fatty, oily foods, and diets high in refined sugar and carbohydrates can trigger acne flare-ups. Salty, iodized, or spicy foods can also be a problem for some people. Water is essential to good health and necessary to keep the skin hydrated and looking its best. Drinking plenty of water helps to flush out toxins from the body.
Be careful with Cosmetics. Beware of the term “oil-free”. Many manufacturers use synthetic oils, rather than natural oils (like animal, vegetable or mineral oil), because these oils technically can be called “oil-free”. But the synthetic oils can still cause or aggravate acne. Frequently acne caused by cosmetics will appear as whiteheads over the cheeks, forehead and chin. Mineral make-up is generally recommended, as it contains natural ingredients that do not cause irritation or harm the skin.
Moisturizers. Similar to cosmetics, some moisturizers will provoke acne and therefore are not recommended for acne-prone skin. Moisturizers result in a build-up of dead cells, decreased cellular exfoliation, and damage to the skin. Moisturizers are only recommended under certain circumstances and then only a functional moisturizer (one with active ingredients that stimulate cellular activity) is recommended, like Ommerse Daily Renewal or Ommerse Overnight Recovery, from ZO Skin Health.
De-stress. When you are stressed, stress hormones become imbalanced and a variety of health problems may occur. You may not be able to avoid stress, but you can manage it with exercise, meditation, and personal down-time.
If acne problems persist, it’s important to get medical treatment, because acne can cause scars. See a dermatologist for a recommendation, treatment and/or prescription.
Keratosis Pilaris (aka, “Chicken Skin”)
Its nickname is chicken skin, but it’s more formally referred to as keratosis pilaris. Whatever you call it—it’s not easily corrected, and treatment can last for six months.
It appears as little red bumps on the back of the upper arms, the thighs, torso and/or derriere. It frequently affects people with eczema or asthma.
This condition has a genetic component, and is caused by hot showers, loofahs and abrasive scrubs, and exacerabated by cold, dry winter air. The real culprit is a protein in the skin (called keratin) that plugs the hair follicles.
Depending on the severity, there are several courses of treatment. ZO Skin Health’s Body Emulsion (which contains an ultra-high concentration of lactic acid) should be applied to the affected areas. It’s both an emollient and humectant, so it softens and smoothes the skin, as well as an exfoliator. Apply it after showering, while the skin is still damp, and then 2-3 more times throughout the day. For many people, this treatment alone will suffice. In combination with this, you may want to have an aesthetician perform microdermabrasion.
If you don’t see improvement after several weeks, see a dermatologist. He/she may recommend a light peel of retinoic acid and TCA, or low dose prescription retinoids.
First, though, try to treat keratosis pilaris without prescription drugs–ZO Skin Health Body Emulsion should be your first option.
New Alternatives to Botox®–Should You Give it a Shot?
- Used to be, when you asked a doctor for Botox, you got Botox. That’s because Botox was first in the market and had no competition. But soon, that will change. The FDA has approved Dysport®, a new anti-wrinkle injectible, also made from botulinum toxin. When it becomes available, should you ask your doctor to make the switch, especially if it’s a little cheaper?That’s an important question, so let’s face the facts.
- Dysport spreads after it has been injected. This is both a good and a bad thing. The advantage is that if large areas (like your forehead) need injection, theoretically it requires fewer injections, thereby reducing discomfort. In my experience, however, this migration causes a dilution, so more units need to be injected– so we’re right back where we started.
The disadvantage is that unless your doctor is experienced and has a good understanding of complex musculature (around the eyes, between the eyebrows), Dysport could migrate and cause blurred vision or sleepy eyelids. Those are some pretty devastating consequences–even if they last only 3-4 months, that can seem like a very long time.
Find out what other consumers are saying. In one blog, only 11 people (out of 21) were pleased with Dysport. Also read about what other physicians are saying about Dysport, and ask your physician to discuss it with you.
- The price of Botox is high, and competition may bring that price down. Up until this time, though, Allergan (the manufacturer of Botox) has not felt the pressure.
- Dysport paralyzes the muscle, and becomes effective in about 2-3 days; Botox generally takes longer than that.
- The FDA requires drugs like Botox to carry a warning label, saying that the drug may spread from the injection site to distant parts of the body, and can have serious side effects, like problems with swallowing or breathing. While anything is possible with botulinum toxin, problems are less likely with Botox Cosmetic. They’re of greater concern when Botox is used to treat spastic muscles of the eyes, and other systemic usage.
- Once popular, Botox parties are now making a comeback. The hostess usually gets her treatment for free, compliments of the doctor. And the doctor hopes to meet some new clients. For him, it’s a marketing tool. But for the patient, is it worth the risk? Not in my opinion. The risk of complications is too high. Sometimes the “doctor” isn’t a doctor at all—it’s only a clinician. For the patient, alcohol (even if it’s just a glass of wine!) and Botox don’t mix. Doctors should give Botox injections under the right lighting and conditions, and in the privacy of their own office.
- If you are in a restaurant that serves only Pepsi-Cola®, and you order Coca-Cola®, your waiter is required to advise you of that distinction. But that’s more of a trademark issue, than a truth-in-dispensing issue. If you ask for Botox, and your doctor chooses to give you Dysport, should she be required to discuss it with you?
When it comes to Botox or Dysport, be careful and be informed. Talk to your physician about it.
Asian Skin—Part Nature, Part Nurture
Asians have flawless skin. At least that’s what the rest of the world thinks. But let’s FACE THE FACTS. That impeccable skin doesn’t come naturally. For many, it takes dedication.
First, let’s look at the plus side—and the first one is a big, big plus—especially up until age 30. Asians are the envy of women around the world because they look younger than their actual age. Asian skin generally contains more melanin, so photo-aging is not a significant problem. They like a fair, even-tone complexion, so they avoid sun exposure, and their skin is less prone to the tell-tale signs of aging—like wrinkling and sagging.
But Asian skin also has its problems:
Sensitivity
Asian skin is susceptible to discoloration from UV rays, hormonal changes, hot water, saunas, and steam. Asian skin also reacts badly to the use of some skin care products, moisturizers, fragrances and acne—all of which can result in skin reactions, scarring and increased pigmentation. Try to avoid those products and/or conditions that cause problems, and begin sun protection at an early age. Look out for ingredients like ammonia and arnia and sodium lauryl sulfate, especially if they appear at or near the top of the ingredient list. If these ingredients are used in minute amounts (toward the bottom of the list), they may not be problematic.
Pigmentation
Because Asian skin produces more melanin, it has a built-in SPF that helps reduce sun- burns, but this melanin also causes more discoloration. Even though the skin may appear to be light, the melanin may reside in the deeper layers of the skin. This excess melanin can induce pigmentation problems—including sun spots, dark patches, and deep discoloration that is resistant to treatment. Dark spots on the cheeks usually begin to appear in the 30’s and 40’s, although they can also appear earlier. Unfortunately, traditional ways of treating these pigmentation problems (IPL, photorejuvenation, light chemical peels and microdermabrasion) frequently are not effective, and may, in fact, cause the pigmentation to worsen.
Apply broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen with at least SPF 30 every day, rain or shine, and whether you’re indoors or out (UVA rays penetrate windows). Not only will you reduce the risk of skin cancer, you will also help reduce the incidence of pigmentation problems.
Oiliness/Acne
Asian skin tends to have unstable sebaceous glands. Sometimes that excess sebum production leads to discoloration and scarring. Proper care and oil-free moisturizers will help. Avoid products made with mineral oil—it’s the oil most commonly found in skincare products. It’s also important to avoid the use of cleansers that contain alcohol, as that may cause skin to produce even more oil. And don’t make the mistake of using overly harsh cleansers (look out for ingredients like sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate ) as these detergents can be very damaging.
The best way to treat all of these problems—sensitivity, pigmentation and acne—is by stimulating the skin to rejuvenate itself and expedite cellular renewal. All of my product lines are based on this philosophy. Sometimes, in more advanced cases, problem skin will require medical treatment and downtime.
Dr. Obagi is a pioneer in the treatment of Asian skin and has lectured and traveled extensively throughout Asia, training dermatologists and plastic surgeons. He owns and operates a practice in San Gabriel, CA (626.288.5115) with a staff fluent in Mandarin and Cantonese. His main office is in Beverly Hills, CA.
Zein Obagi, MD
亚洲皮肤的性质
亚洲人喜欢拥有完美的皮肤. 他们的白皙皮肤及均匀肤色令到其他国籍羨慕. 但是, 这种
無懈可擊的皮肤不是天生的. 当然很多人是采取多种方法令皮肤变得漂亮..
首先, 亚洲人的皮肤另到其它種族羡慕的主要原因是他们看起来比真实年龄年轻. 一般
来说, 亚洲人的皮肤比正常含有的黑色素高, 所以她们老化得不明显. 正因为他们喜欢平
均肤色, 所以经常避免暴曬太阳底下, 因此她们的皮肤不容易出现老化的徵象.
可惜, 就算更完美无缺的皮肤都有问题.
皮肤过敏
亞洲人的皮膚特別容易出現膚色不均勻的狀況, 主要原因是受到太陽的紫外線侵害, 荷
爾蒙失調, 熱水,桑拿浴 的影響. 如果使用不合適的皮膚保養品或香水 (香 水 有 香 料
及 色 素 成 份), 皮膚會产生反應, 例如会形成暗瘡, 瘡疤, 提升色素斑塊. 请在年轻时
候使用防曬用品. 请留意以下的一些成分, Ammonia, Arnia, Sodium Lauryl, Sulfate, 如
果这些成分出现最前排的成分表上, 都较为安全使用.
色素斑
正因为亚洲人的皮肤繁殖较多的黑色素, 皮肤本身建立的SPF 可以减少曬傷皮膚, 但亦
因为这种黑色素增加皮肤的色素斑. 虽然皮肤显得白皙, 黑色素沉淀于皮肤的里层. 这
些多余的黑色素可以导致皮肤颜色不均匀的主要原因, 包括雀斑, 黑块 等等.. 黑斑出现
在臉頰的两旁通常30 或 40 岁左右, 甚至些斑有可能会在早期呈现. 甚至有些醫生還會
用一些舊的方案解決嚴重的色素皮膚問題. 可惜這是一個治標不治本的方法, 看到的只
是皮膚表面得到改善. 有些皮膚醫生會使用 IPL, 脫皮術, 水晶磨皮術作為初步治療, 可
能導致皮膚有反效果.
每天使用Broad-Spectrum UVA/UVB防曬油, 防曬度至少SPF30, 无论下雨, 晴天, 室外,
不但可以减少皮肤癌的机会, 同时能够减低皮肤出现色素斑.
油性/粉刺
亚洲人的皮肤油脂分泌过多. 有时侯这些多余的油脂会另肤色变得不均匀. 要使用适当
自己的护肤品. 防止含有一些产品含有天然油脂. 最重要的是洗脸清潔劑,前往不可含有
酒精成份, 反而另皮肤分泌更多的油脂. 较为小心注意清潔劑組成部分. 请注意一些有
害性的成分. (例如, Sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium lareth sulfate)
最好的方法去治疗敏感, 色素斑, 暗瘡是促進皮肤细胞, 使皮肤变得美丽健康. 有时候, 比
价多问题的皮肤情况需要药物的治疗及过度期.
所有的皮膚色斑都可以成功地治療, 如果有一個平衡導線治療色斑, 皮膚會顯得更有光
澤, 健康, 年輕, 透徹, 就象初生的嬰兒一樣嫰滑. 想得到更多的諮詢電話是 626-288-
5115. (拥有流利广东话及国语) Obagi 醫生的偉大傑作另您的皮膚再次變得健康. 他
的主店位於Beverly Hills, California.




