Dr. Zein Obagi
Moisturizer: The Whole Truth and Nothing but the Truth
I want you to forget everything you’ve been taught about moisturizing your skin. From the lady behind the cosmetic counter to the dermatologist on your TV — forget what you’ve been told. It’s high time you know the truth about hydrating your skin and I’m going to give it to you.
First, you need to consider where your information has come from. Think about your skincare sources and the key piece of advice they’ve drilled into your head: moisturize, moisturize, moisturize. How many of these people were trying to sell you moisturizer?
It’s not rocket science, friends. They tell you what they have to in order to get the sell. And, you like what you hear — that your skin will look younger — so you oblige.
I’m not trying to sell you anything. I have a bevy of skincare products, yes, but I won’t mention one of them in this writing. I just want you to know the truth. Even if it means purchasing less moisturizer. And, that’s what it will mean because your skin doesn’t need it. That’s right, your skin — get this — hydrates itself.
When the skin cells are strong and healthy, a natural delivery system of hydration takes place. But when the cells recognize an outside source has already hydrated the skin, there’s no need for the natural hydration to take place. They consequently become inactive and stop the moisture production process. That leads to dry, dull, aging skin.
Ever noticed the more moisturizer you apply, the more your skin seems to need it? It dries out, right? That’s because your skin is becoming addicted to the outside source of hydration: the moisturizer you’ve been piling on.
Look, I’m not recommending you swear off moisturizers. I realize tightness and dryness call for it sometimes. But, you need a functional moisturizer to keep your cells active and healthy. Look for moisturizers that contain Retinol so skin is hydrated, but cells are simultaneously stimulated. The higher the concentration of Retinol, the better. Otherwise, you’re creating more problems for your skin, including accelerating the signs of aging.
So, there you have it: The truth about moisturizing. Not quite the same information you’ve been given over the years, I know. But, remember, I’m not selling you anything. I’m giving you something: knowledge. And, knowledge is power.
ZO Skin Health
Facelifts, Optional.
I went to a party in Tinsel Town this week, and while there was some small-talk about Tiger’s troubles or the California gubernatorial, I spent most of my time talking about— you guessed it — skin. That’s OK, it’s my favorite thing to talk about.
But there’s something that I didn’t like: The number of women who told me that they needed plastic surgery — a facelift or necklift — or lasers. Who told them that? Their friends? Their husbands? Their doctors? No, none of the above. More often than not, the women had convinced themselves.
I’ve got nothing against plastic surgeons. In fact, one works in my practice. There are some wonderful plastic surgeons out there. And lasers? I almost have more than I can count. Admittedly, I like gadgets, high-tech equipment and the latest technology.
I tried to convince these women that the right skincare products can thicken and strengthen their skin — maybe a chemical peel (like the Obagi Blue Peel) would be a good idea. I tried to convince them that they looked great and that invasive surgery wasn’t the right option at this time. Mild skin laxity can be reversed non-surgically. Face lifts are necessary only when muscle and skin laxity is pronounced. The land of the rich and famous has some petty, ego-driven and competitive people and unfortunately this influence has spoiled some otherwise wonderful people.
Is it their skin these folks don’t believe in or is it their dermatologist? Because I can turn both around in no time.
It shouldn’t be about keeping up with the Joneses. Especially not when the Joneses are getting gratuitous plastic surgery. It’s time we start a new trend. One that accomplishes healthy, youthful skin without the aid of a scalpel. Your skin can do it.
ZO Skin Health
Large Pores… For Some, They’re an even Larger Problem
Large pores—how can something so small be such a big deal? Probably because enlarged pores make it difficult to have smooth, firm, tight, younger looking skin. Correcting large pores is not difficult, but you need to treat your skin right!
Here’s are a few “do’s”:
- Make sure that you use the right cleanser. Use one designed for oily skin—look for ingredients like salicylic, glycolic or lactic acid, and make sure that you use it for one full minute—it takes that long to break down sebum. Even if you think you have “normal” skin—and I personally don’t think that there is such a thing—I recommend a cleanser for oily skin–like ZO’s Exfoliating Cleanser. That’s the first part of the regimen—twice a day—morning and night.
- Exfoliate! Once a day is not too much. You need to get rid of the dead surface skin cells so that the younger, healthier, living ones can emerge. If you don’t exfoliate regularly, your skin will appear dull and dry. I like a good scrub—like ZO’s Exfoliating Polish. It has round magnesium crystals so won’t irritate the skin. And scrub diligently! What you really want to do is to stimulate your skin cells—keep them alive and active!
- Deep cleanse your pores with TE pads—they’re soaked in a combination of salicylic and glycolic acid to exfoliate the skin, thus speeding up skin renewal.
- Retinoids (like Retin-A) or high potency retinol products (like ZO’s Radical Night Repair Plus) may reduce pore size because they help decrease the activity of the oil glands. Active Vitamin A treatment doesn’t reduce pore size for everyone—but many people are successful with it.
- Try a quick fix at home. Egg white masks (combine two egg whites and a few drops of lemon juice) can have a quick, albeit temporary, fix.
- Microdermabrasion administered by a professional aesthetician will help exfoliate the skin and provide temporary improvement, but it’s not a permanent solution.
And a few “don’ts”:
1. Don’t get overzealous. Avoid the use of harsh astringents and toners–they can exacerbate the problem.
2. Use moisturizers advisedly. They compact dead cells and decrease cellular turnover. When your pores get clogged and skin isn’t allowed to exfoliate normally, you increase the probability that pores will be enlarged.
3. Don’t try to cover up the problem with foundation or powders. It won’t work and will only irritate the pores (as well as your dermatologist).
Work with the basics—a cleanser, chemical and physical exfoliant—daily. Those three things may be enough to treat large pores.
Donna Queen
Great Makeup Starts with Great Skincare
If you’re a fan of makeovers then surely you’ve seen TLC’s “What Not to Wear” and have watched the pivotal moment when makeup artist Carmindy twirls that chair around to reveal her jaw-dropping work. Viewers can’t help but wish they knew the secret to her artistry. Well, she reveals all in her new book, “Crazy Busy Beautiful: Beauty Secrets for Getting Gorgeous Fast.”
Guess what tip #1 is? No, not the way to master a smokey eye. Carmindy makes ZO Skin Health proud by proclaiming to her fans that great makeup starts with great skincare.
Carmindy: “Skin tells all. It reflects your health, indicates your stress-o-meter, and shows whether yov’e made precention part of your beauty routine.
“Even if you haven’t been most excellent to your epidermis, fear not. It’s never too late (or too soon) to step up your skincare routine and reap the gorgeous rewards.”
We couldn’t have said it better. Here are a few tips Carmindy recommends that echo the advice Dr. Zein Obagi has been recommending since back when he developed Obagi NuDerm. Take a look:
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Wear sunscreen every single day: Dr. Obagi asserts that SPF is your most reliable protection against the signs of aging.
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Wash your face at night: You’ve heard it here time and time again. Dr. Obagi recommends scrubbing at least one full minute to rid of the sebum that leads to blemishes.
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Exfoliate: Sloughing off dead skin cells is achieved with our Exfoliating Polish. Dr. Obagi recommends using it daily, but once a week is the bare minimum!
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Retinoid creams help stimulate collagen: Amen! Our Radical Night Repair Plus contains the highest concentration of retinol you’ll find over-the-counter.
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Don’t pile on a bunch of creams: We told you earlier this week that doing this can lead to sensitive skin and/or overmoisturization which causes lazy skin cells, the very cause of wrinkles and fine lines.
ZO Skin Health
Stop Letting Skincare Companies Fool You
I often wonder if women’s skin is anywhere as clean as their brains. I only wonder because I know so many cosmetic companies are in the business of brainwashing.
As a dermatologist who never lost his passion for skin, I see the brainwashing effects on a daily basis. Seven out of 10 women who visit my clinic are only too happy to declare their “skin type” when they see me. My children patients never utter those words during their appointments and the only type my male patients have are of the blonde or brunette persuasion.
It’s time women stopped making themselves such an easy target. Deceitful skincare companies go after you harder than your children or male counterparts because you’re the ones willing to take the bait time and time again. Why? Because you’re desperate.
I don’t blame you, either. You’re desperate because you want — and deserve — to look your best, but short of going under the knife, can’t find the solution. You’re desperate because you spend your hard-earned money on product after product only to get broken promise after broken promise. You’re desperate because the cosmetic industry made you that way and wants to keep you that way.
The time has come to finally take the targets off your backs, ladies. Take the time to educate yourselves on what works and what doesn’t work in the fight against aging. Read the fine print in the advertisements. Ask yourself if the claims these companies are making have any scientific merit. Decide if you’re putting your money into pretty packaging or high-grade ingredients.
I couldn’t think of a better day than April Fool’s Day to ask women to stop playing the fool and, in effect, finally make a fool of deceptive cosmetic companies.
WHO’S WITH ME?
ZO Skin Health
A Skincare Regimen That’s Stepping it Up — with Fewer Steps
Some skincare companies just keep getting more creative. Or maybe we should say more greedy?
Their latest strategy is to create lots of “steps.” As in the number of steps it takes to execute a skincare regimen. Some require as many as 20! That means — you got it — 20 products to buy.
Your skincare regimen isn’t choreography. There shouldn’t be so many steps the very thought makes you dizzy. One of the things the skincare experts at the buying offices of Nordstrom, where our products are sold, like so much about ZO Skin Health is its simplicity. It increases compliance.
Beyond the basic greed factor, and the thought of wasting your money, here’s what is wrong with using too many products — from a clinical standpoint:
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Overmoisturizing skin will actually cause more harm than good. It forces the skin cells in the dermis to stop collecting water from the food and water you drink, which stops the cells from supplying it to the surface of the skin.
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Too many products can and will induce acne, blackheads and whiteheads, because your skin pores will become clogged.
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Using the wrong products or too many products can cause skin sensitivity.
Let’s keep it simple. ZO Skin Health consists of five simple steps — the same way I created the Obagi NuDerm system.
Step 1: Cleanse. Massage for one full minute to rid of the sebum that leads to blemishes. Step 2: Activate. Slough off dead skin cells, get rid of excess sebum and open the pores, to enhance penetration of active ingredients. Step 3. Stimulate. Wake up dormant skin cells that lead to aging skin. Step 4: Calm & Nourish: Lock in moisture and give skin its “R and R.” Step 5: Protect: SPF is the most effective anti-aging source out there.
We won’t trip you up over too many steps. After all, we know you have a life.
ZO Skin Health
The Battle of the Sexes: When It Comes to Fighting Aging, Men Win.
If you’re thinking, “it’s just not fair”–you’re probably right. It’s a double-whammy.
We already suspected that men find it easier, and quicker, to lose unwanted pounds. But now we know women also age faster than men–meaning their skin loses collagen and elastin at a faster rate, and at an earlier age, than men. That helps explain why women spend more time and more money on cosmetic products, injections, and procedures. It’s not just vanity–it’s reality.
Lasers can now image the deeper layers of the skin–where collagen and elastin are produced. Studies conducted at the National Taiwan University in Taipei showed that collagen degenerates in women faster–causing more wrinkles, more skin laxity, and more uneven texture.
Women’s best revenge? Use topical products high in active Vitamin A (retinol or retinoids) and active Vitamin C. Build up your skin’s natural defense mechanisms to restore skin strength and resiliency–ZO Skin Health’s Radical Night Repair Plus is a good choice.
Life still won’t be fair, but at least your skin will be firm.
Donna Queen
Know Where Your Money is Going
Have you ever wondered what’s worth paying for and what’s just a waste of time and money?
We realize high-quality skincare comes at a price, but some of the stuff now on the market is patently ridiculous. Here are just a few examples of items currently being marketed.
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A Swarovski crystal-studded cream pot: You have to wonder how many pageant dresses were harmed in the making of it and what function it serves the application process or your skin directly.
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Creams that come with little spoons or spatulas: Does the miniature utensil help you better apply the cream or better eat up the tomfoolery?
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A liquid serum bottle made of actual gold: Why do we suspect you’d have better luck taking it to the pawn shop than you would putting its contents on your face?
So is all impressive packaging a giant rip-off? No. Sometimes it’s not a luxury at all; sometimes it’s a necessity.
Case in point, some of the new pumps and jars. There might be a bit of a wow factor to them, but most of these airless pumps and jars were designed strictly with function in mind. According to Dr. Obagi, “pop up pumps promote cleanliness (keeping fingers out of the jar means that bacteria can’t be introduced) and keep the key ingredients safe from degrading.” Retinol, retinoic acid, Vitamin C and many natural/organic products spoil quickly when exposed to air or UV rays.
And there’s another big plus. Measured doses (like with Ommerse Cremes, Radical Night Repair Plus, Growth Factor Serum and Oclipse sunscreen) help ensure you’re not using an excessive amount of product, which can backfire on you. (Yes, too much of a good thing really does exist.)
The next time you buy a skincare product, ask yourself if the bells and whistles serve a function or a distraction.
ZO Skin Health
Fighting Aging–with a Punch!
Rumor has it that I don’t mess around developing skincare products. Point well-taken. Nobody ever called me a wuss.
I don’t believe that skincare treatment products can be truly effective unless they have high concentrations of active ingredients. If they’re “watered down” or have weak formulas–the skincare products are essentially just moisturizing your face–they won’t have any lasting benefit. If you’re going to fight aging, pack a good punch!
Take my newest creation–ZO Skin Health Ossential Radical Night Repair Plus–it’s what I call putting the punch into the fight against aging.
* It has ten times as much retinol as the leading beauty store brand; six times as much retinol as the leading drug store brand; five times more retinol than the leading department store brand.
* It’s in a water-free formula, so the active retinol is not diluted–it’s more potent. And Ossential Radical Night Repair Plus can’t evaporate–it stays on your skin until it’s absorbed.
* The time-release micro-spheres continue to work for 5-6 hours, so it can continue to work while you’re sleeping.
* A brand new peptide increases your skin’s tolerance for high concentrations of active ingredients (that’s my kind of peptide!). We always want to increase the strength of our skin; tolerant skin is strong skin.
For effective products, I like to develop formulas that are almost prescription-strength–you’ll get better results that way.
Donna Queen
The Worst Cities for Healthy Skin, Part III
It’s our last installment on the worst cities in the country for your skin. TotalBeauty.com conducted a study to find which cities are most harsh on our skin and we’ve taken the liberty of adding our commentary. Take a look at the five worst to see if your city made the unfortunate list.
#5: Phoenix, Arizona: “But it’s a dry heat!” Whoever came up with that never knew the wrath of severely dry skin. Without the hydration it needs, the lipid layer depletes and skin dries out as a result. To make up for the moisture deficit, Dr. Zein Obagi recommends drinking more than 8 glasses of water daily and avoiding hot water like the plague.
#4 Las Vegas, Nevada: Your skin’s luck runs out fast in this city. Las Vegans endure triple digit temperatures, a dry climate and high smoking rates, but its stress level is so high it’s stressful. Rosacea, acne, psoriasis — all of them flare up under stress. Meditate, take up yoga, count to 10. For the sake of your skin, Las Vegas, relax.
#3 Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania: Take away the pollution and you still have the tanning beds. Take away the tanning beds and you still have 20 percent of the city puffing away. No need to fear, Pittsburgh. Dr. Zein Obagi’s daughter, Dr. Suzan Obagi, is assistant professor at the Cosmetic Surgery and Skin Center at University of Pittsburgh. When she’s not making women look younger, she’s dermatologist to the Pittsburgh Steelers. Consider her your saving grace!
#2 Houston, Texas: Ninety percent humidity and high ozone pollution prove you can’t mess with Texas, but Texas — Houston specifically — can mess with your skin all it wants. Pollution is one thing, but high ozone pollution will make your skin more susceptible to burns and damage layers of tissue. Three words: Ess. Pea. Eff.
